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Brother Mike 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Peterson, Rick McDonald, Rhonda Peterson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,486
Submitted By: Billcoe on Sep 14, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: P2 crux

Description 

Scott Peterson (Plaidman) did this route ground up. Sometimes Plaidman was solo, sometimes getting Rhonda or Rick to belay. Rick and Scott came back and freed it afterwards with Ricky snagging the leads on the cruxes and cruising them. Route is well bolted as the bolts are sturdy 1/2 x 5-1/2 Stainless steel and not runout. but pro is recommended for the first 60 feet which is a cruiser 5.7. A single 60 meter is all you need to rappel off.

The rock is solid, sort of an andesitic cross between Smith Rock Welded Tuft and Maple Canyon cobbles. Rumor I'd heard is that it's the best route on the rock! (only 2 *cough* routes on it at this time)

Location 

Directions are on the main page same as the Becky route. Access the route as if you would be doing the Becky route, except head towards the left (East) side instead of the right/behind. The top of the route is clearly visible from your car Down on the road- so just drive up the road till you see it and walk up to it.

Protection 

  • Single Rack of Cams .3 - #3 Camalot

  • 22 Draws and or long slings (work as for tie offs on pitch one if you wish)

  • 60m rope


Photos of Brother Mike Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Peterson (Plaidman) leading the FA of Brothe...
Scott Peterson (Plaidman) leading the FA of Brothe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rick McDonald leading pitch 1 on the 2nd ascent.
Rick McDonald leading pitch 1 on the 2nd ascent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Priestly leading the 2nd ascent of Brother Mik...
Ben Priestly leading the 2nd ascent of Brother Mik...

Comments on Brother Mike Add Comment
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By daricouv
Jul 24, 2017

Just to clarify the directions to BROTHER MIKE.

Driving access is as to the Steeple. (BTW, I never saw the Steeple from the car - maybe the summer tree growth is thicker now since 2012).

Now this is where it gets kind of tough. Like the directions say, "head uphill". We came downhill upon return, but did not go up this way. It would be nice if the "regulars" tagged their route so that a trail can be created.

We may have completely missed the directions "just drive up the road till you see it and walk up to it." Consider this way (someone can confirm if my assumption is correct). Instead of going on the overgrown road to the left of the turnaround, look for a small plank arrow hammered on a tree, near the parking area, in the direction of the Steeple. Then just start hiking up! Good luck - hopefully there is no devils club or willows . . .

Here's how we came down, with the directions starting from the bottom: Once you park at the turn around spot, hike the overgrown road on the left, until you see a culvert on the right - about 100 yards. The culvert is less obvious on the left. A couple of yards beyond that, look for a spot to clamber up and out of the ditch on the left.

If you keep going uphill, you may go up across a gully and then you'll hit a huge patch of devil's club, to at least five feet high. Yes, bring a pruner. Shears aren't as useful, but it does work well as a pick in the dirt that you may encounter. (IF we come again, we would either bring an ice axe or strong walking poles.)

After going through the devil's club (you may see where people have pruned), you'll go through a willow thicket (straight uphill). When you break through the willow thicket, there's a very brief old growth trees, to a steep grassy hill and a small section of rock to solo. Then it's up to the base on very loose steep dirt. There really is no safe belay platform. It's narrow, steep, loose dirt.

Instead of using the crack at the first pitch, there are 3 huge bolts to the hanging belay further up, solo up an interesting steep step like gully to once again, steep dirt belay "platform."

This is a great hiking adventure!

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