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Beauty and the Beast T 
Brother From Another Planet T 
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Salmon Run T 
Skid Row T 
Strike and Dip T 
Third World Lover T 
Unknown finger crack L of Crappucino T 
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Wrasse T 

Brother From Another Planet 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bryan Gilmore
Page Views: 7,883
Submitted By: m-earle on Nov 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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King of the dirtbags, pre-flight

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Climb a varied right facing corner to a splitter hand crack that brings you to a 10' offwidth roof. Take advantage of the good rest before committing to the cruxy 8' that follows. Invert, then bust out the roof and around the lip into the squeeze finish.

An exellent route (if you dig inverted OW's) See Bloom Guidebook PG. 127 for further beta...


100' to the right of Walkin' Talkin' Bob, in the same alcove as The Piano.


In Camalots...
1 #6 (two is better)
1 #5
1 #3
2 #2
1 #1
2-3 #.75
1 #.5
2 #.4
2 #1 Metolius
Stiff Soled Shoes

Photos of Brother From Another Planet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Osborne in Brother From Another Planet
Tom Osborne in Brother From Another Planet
Rock Climbing Photo: Pullin' the lip....
Pullin' the lip....
Rock Climbing Photo: Inverting
Rock Climbing Photo: Christina Freschl pulling around the roof.
Christina Freschl pulling around the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: It's only 5.11...
BETA PHOTO: It's only 5.11...

Comments on Brother From Another Planet Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin DB
Feb 12, 2013

That is a burly 10 feet of climbing, that's for sure.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Sep 18, 2013

nice video how to:
By Cedar Wright
Dec 2, 2013

There is a hidden Jug Rail Deep Deep in the back.
By Michael Hasson
From: Sausalito, CA
Oct 23, 2016

Gear beta felt a little wonky for the first part and I ended up hanging a bunch of cams before the roof just to get rid of them. The gear I used was 1x blue metolius (for the thin bulge), 1x .5, 1x .75, 1x 1, 2x 2, 1x 3, 1x 5, 2x 6. The climbing up to the roof felt like .10/.10+ but a little weird because the corner is somewhat broken.

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