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River Wall II
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Arresting Arete S 
Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 
Big, Big, Monkey Man T 
Box, The T,TR 
Brother From Another Planet S 
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 
Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 
Introducing Meteor Dad S 
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Brother From Another Planet 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Pat Adams
Page Views: 5,691
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Oct 20, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Climber: Jonathan Siegrist. Photo: Andy Mann.

CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This superb power route climbs the third route from the left side of the crag. Reach the base by rock hopping across the river just below the Buttonrock Resevoir spillway. The furtherst left two lines are New Horizon and Lost Horizon, a bolted arete and an insane finger crack, respectively.

The next line, BFAP, climbs the right side of this constant angle overhanging section of stone on unrelenting powerful slopers and edges. One leaves the security of the initial ramp and right corner launching onto the overhanging face after clipping the first two bolts. Fire immediately into the powerful crux, a big move to a small incut. One amazingly consistent move after another bring one to the top. Stellar.

Protection 

Six bolts. The next to last had fixed biner, and the last was coldshut. Also, there is webbing on blocks above for rapping.

Per 106973956 2 bolts were added to the start with the permission of the FA.


Photos of Brother From Another Planet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brother From Another Planet, 13b, has draws on it.
Brother From Another Planet, 13b, has draws on it.

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By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Short but sweet. Seemed easier than Old Yellar.
Also, the fixed biner is gone, and there is a single chain anchor in addition to the closed coldshut.
By Damon Vaughan
Nov 7, 2015

Super route! Four long slashes allow passage up a face that would otherwise be blank. Prospective suitors should note that it's a bit awkward getting up to the first bolt, and stick clipping from the ledge is not a bad idea.
By Jon Linhart
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jan 29, 2017

Added 2 bolts to the start of this today with permission from the first ascentionist. The intro rock is exfoliating, and the gear is sparse and in poor rock, but now the route is much more enjoyable.
By Seth Finkelstein
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 2, 2017

Bolt addition is a great upgrade to a great route. Thanks, Jon. The traditional gear leading up the main face was quite marginal and in suspect rock. Cleaned off a large block on the 'ledge', but exercise caution as the rock below the face is all somewhat suspect. Fun route!

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