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Brothel Doc 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Matt Tackett, Amy Tackett,Jason Haas in 2006
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Oct 28, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is a nice, steep route with a distinct crux at the second bolt, and pumpy, yet progressively easier climbing to the top.

Some powerful pulls on good pockets gets you over the starting bulge. Make a tricky second clip, then muscle into a unique lie-back feature and tackle a thin crux on pockets to some better holds. Endure a few more bolts of pumpy climbing until the difficulty relents a bit. Fun, thoughtful slopers, and pockets lead to the chains.

Would get more starts if the rock in the top 1/3 of the route were a bit cleaner and less fragile.

Location 

In an alcove 100 feet left of No Sleep Til' Campton. Just right of a right leaning roof crack called Kindred Spirits.

Protection 

Bolts and a two bolt anchor.


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