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Biochemically Compacted Sexual Affection S 
Broski/Linaweaver S 
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Pick Pocket S 
Sex Packets S 
Split Personality S 

Broski/Linaweaver 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Linaweaver, Mike Broski, 1991
Page Views: 77
Submitted By: Jonathan Howland on Apr 24, 2014

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Howland en route. C. Rein photo

Description 

What if Steck/Salathe, Chouinard/Herbert, and Hillary/Norgay had said, 'Why bother?"
Thankfully, Broski/Linaweaver didn't either.

Fun moves, and some thoughtful meandering.
Last third chossy.
Direct finish harder than 10b IMO. Indirect finish (to the right), easier than 10b.

Location 

The route is well to the right of the famous Sex/Sex Packets buttress, climbing the right side of an obvious face. Starts some 20 feet or more up a gully.

Protection 

If leader falls before first bolt, nastiness ensues. Can establish safer belay with 3/4 to 1 inch cams in a crack up and to the right of base.
5 bolts to rusty chains.


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