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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 540', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X [details]
FA: 1979 Gaétan Martineau Jacques Lamontagne
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Submitted By: Tom Canac on Sep 26, 2017

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An easy first pitch to warm up, good enough pro placements. The end of the second pitch starts to runout.

You can manage to setup a belay (uncomfortable) before the big roof. Then, the party starts. Poor rock quality, big fragile flakes, awkward traverse with a couple of micro nuts. Then a big roof to pass, without any really good pro.

You can manage to avoid the roof and go on the right to finish on a rappel line if things starts to be too scary. Take care, if you go on the right of the roof, you can make some rock falls.

No informations about pitch 3.

Honestly, the second pitch is beautiful, but I'm not sure if it was the climbing or the adrenaline.


From the parking lot, take the biggest path, right to the mailbox. then, first left, first left again. the path should go left for some time.
You should arrive at the start of a big slab, with a big roof upper. Here you are!


Trad gear, micros, tricams can help. You can manage to make some belays on trees.

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