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South Star Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Steep Climb Named Desire S 
Ali S 
Bronco S 
Bucko S 
Cookie Mix S 
Father's Day T 
Just Add Water (aka Cookie Dough) S 
On the Outskirts of Hope S 
Star Walls Crack T 
Taste the Pain S 
Warp Factor S 


YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Hidetaka Suzuki 1988
Page Views: 1,328
Submitted By: Rob Eison on Dec 24, 2011

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To the right of Cookie Mix is the start for a trio of route variations, the best of which is Bronco, an incredibly thuggish but stellar 12d. Work into the awkward, slightly overhanging left-facing dihedral and follow along the right-trending series of overlapping roofs until you encounter a large downward pointing flake. Muscle up and to the right of this and finagle a knee bar rest in an obvious pod before tackling the dramatic undercling traverse beneath the huge roof. Pull up and right in the break as you join the headwall finish for "A Steep Climb Named Desire."

If you pull up and left over the first roof to a set of lower anchors the variation is a 13a called Potlicker.

If you skip the amazing traverse and exit over the roof above the knee bar pod you'll encounter a tough boulder problem on flaring jams and finish on the anchors for "Taste the Pain." This variation is a 13b called Puma.


right of Cookie Mix, 2nd route from the left.


Approximately 10 bolts most of which have fixed chains. Bring 4 draws for the upper headwall and anchors as these usually aren't fixed.

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By Tahoe Matt
From: Truckee
May 2, 2014

All of the draws are fixed. You can back clean a few to help with the upper headwall.

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