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Broken 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: T. Calderboner
Page Views: 669
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 22, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Not a bad climb. It kind of wonders a bit and is a little dirty at the bottom. Climb up and pull a bulge, traverse left and pass the overhang on the left, head back right and pass 2 more bolts with homemade hangers to find chains at the top of an open book feature. Looks like some bolts may have been added recently to complete an older line.

Location 

This is the first route at the wall, just to the left of Maid in America.

Protection 

7-8 bolts, chains.


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By Gabriel Tallent
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 29, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is now the first route when you come to the wall. A little wandery, a little dirty, and some footholds may come off, but still fun. In some places, it isn't clear where the next bolt is, but it quickly becomes clear if you keep climbing.

One of the anchors and two bolts are indeed homemade. They're in easy terrain and didn't bother me at all. If you find them troubling, they can be backed up by small cams to a .75 camalot (including the anchor, if you're toproping), but they really just add to the route.


Rock Climbing Photo: A homemade bolt
A homemade bolt


Rock Climbing Photo: One bolt of a two bolt anchor
One bolt of a two bolt anchor
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Oct 1, 2015

^^^Those look like old recycled hangers from rebolting efforts on older routes, methinks. Leeper hanger and an old knifeblade piton from the looks of it. Kinda wish those wouldn't make a re-appearance on newer routes. So...not really "homemade" but "re-purposed".
By Rob Stinogle
Jul 11, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just hit this guy this weekend, and the "homemade" bolts and chains are still in great shape. Wasn't very amazing after the bulge, but the first 20 feet and pulling the bulge crux are worth it.

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