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Broken Tooth
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Broken Tooth 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 4,646
Submitted By: e Dixon on Nov 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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The broken tooth

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Starts on top of a small block with tight hands in a flare which quickly go to hands and big hands. Pull up into a large cave below the "tooth". Move out left and pull up over the "tooth". Finish up the narrowing left-facing offset to the anchors.


Starts towards the right side of the wall. Look for the distinctive broken roof and tight hands in a flare start. Great looking line.


Three of everything from .5 camalot to 3 camalot. And a 4 and/or 4.5 camalot.

Photos of Broken Tooth Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber.
Unknown climber.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gunning for the rest. The pumpy finish looms above...
Gunning for the rest. The pumpy finish looms above...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tooth wrassle.
Tooth wrassle.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the tooth-wrassle.
Starting the tooth-wrassle.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shake n' Bake on Broken Tooth
BETA PHOTO: Shake n' Bake on Broken Tooth

Comments on Broken Tooth Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ethan Neff
Aug 13, 2008

This is a brilliant climb! One of my favorites in the Creek. It can be a heart breaker getting shut down at the crux (which is the last 4 feet before the anchors).
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2008

Wow that is tough. The tight corner isn't easy. Pulling the roof to establish on the tooth isn't easy and finishing the .75 to .5 corner would be really rough to jam in good style. I had to lieback ig time to finish this one.
By Ol Toby
From: CA
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

One of the best in the Creek. An awesome rest in the cave after the pumpy start, a unique tooth-wrassling sequence to a good stance, then a pumpy and sustained off-fingers finish to the chains. Superb!
By W.S.
From: Montana
Nov 20, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

One of the most interesting pitches in Indian Creek, in my opinion. Engaging and fun as hell from bottom to top.
By Patrick Pharo
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2015

Agreed, this is one of the best pitches in the area.

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