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North and West Faces
Routes Sorted
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Better than Bitter S 
Broken Thumb T 
cTr S 
Diminishing Returns T 
Falling Apart at the Seams T 
Flamin' Freddie T 
Guilt Trip T 
Hollow Man S 
Nuthin' Tuff T 
On a Whim T 
Pins and Knickers T 
Split Seam T 
Tuff Enough T 
Tuff'n Up S 
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 
Wrecking Ball S 

Broken Thumb 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Scott Keller, Jake Anderegg 1992
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Broken Thumb and Tuff Enough

Description 

On the NE corner of Challenge Buttress, what I used to think was Guilt Trip is this route. It does protect well, and requires a good throw, or some excellent footwork to work the lip. The face above eases considerably after the steepness.

Climbs the steep line just left of Tough Enough.

Protection 

2 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor at the top. Before the 1st bolt, you can protect in horizontal cracks, with cams #2 or less. Bring runners.


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By Scott Keller
Sep 27, 2007

This was put up by Scott Keller and Jake Anderegg (1992-ish?). Hand-drilled quartzite. I think we named it "Broken Thumb" because I whacked my thumb REALLY hard while hammering - wasn't pretty.
By Peter Hayes
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This is a terrific route! However, the .10d rating is not warrented. I did the route back in '94 not knowing what it was and thought it to be in the .10a/b range. In comparison, "Better Than Bitter" is definitely harder.
The pro I placed every time I did the route, in order, was: .5 Camalot w/ runner (mandatory & placed in the vertical crack at the start of the difficulties after the short scramble from the base), pink (.5) Tricam w/draw, 2 bolts, then two draws for the top chains.
The moves are wild, solid and committing, especially pulling the roof, which is a splendid jug haul. This is a really good route, and when considering the .10- rating, and the "easy to access from the top to set a TR", it opens up one more possibility when the crag is crowded.
I give this 3 stars, and should not be missed by any accomplished 5.10 trad leader, because it packs a full effect in its short length. Just remember: It's not .10d!
By Peter Hayes
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

To get a better feel for the rating I suggest, head over to the "S-Curves" and get on "City Slave", which is .10d...you'll feel the difference.
By Scott Keller
Jun 18, 2016

Yeah, we called this "5.9+" on the FA. Definitely not .10d. Glad folks are enjoying the roof!
By BigNobody
From: all over, mostly Utah
Oct 13, 2016

Revisited this lat night. Tricky gear when you get up over the roof. TCU's saved this old mans ass.

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