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Broken Sling 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Cal Swoager, Ed McCarthy 1985
Page Views: 699
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 15, 2008

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Description 

A nice route that saves its crux for the top after you run out of gear options. Unlike most gear routes here, the crack stops at about 3/4 height. Make sure you use those horizontals to get more pro in before going for the top. Even so, a pitch from the top is a long ride!

Location 

Small corner between Happy Hands and Spiderwand.

Protection 

One of everything. Bolted anchor.


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By Notapplicable
Jun 26, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

  • *Onsite spoiler alert**

There is a perfect 0.75 C4 placement to protect the top crux of the route. It's a deep, vertically oriented "cats eye" pod at head height when you're standing on the horizontal you mention as your last gear placement. If you get that piece this is a G rated route, if you miss it or already used your 0.75, you're looking at a big whip.

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