Broken Rock Rock Climbing
Broken Rock, southeast, across the creek from Cast...
Broken Rock is a fairly good name for this crag. Cracks riddle its faces, and most of the route development is in these cracks. The rock is somewhat similar to that of Castle in quality, but has a different aspect (North and West) and much less traffic. The climbs are mostly short and on a low tier, so they get shade when the sun is low. Perhaps this contributes to the overall "wetter" feel of this crag, with a little more lichen, moss, and oh... guano than most normally popular crags. Were this cliff clean and not right next to Castle Rock, it would see a lot of traffic.
Getting off of the routes here can be done by fixed anchors on some routes, by traversing to the fixed anchors from other routes, and by a walk-off uphill then back down, from the rest. I have done the two "recommended" routes by stars in Rossiter's book, and found the moves to be 3-star moves on decent rock, at least partially ruined by guano. This is Momentum Operator Crack (11a, technical, solid, overhanging jam crack to the best bomb-bay in the canyon) and Crack Up (5.9, leaning, overhanging dihedral with a hand-to-fist crack). The other lines nearby seem to be similar.
L->R (may not be correct):
A. Lichet or Leave It
, 10, 4, gear.
B. Undercling?, 9 or 10, 1p, gear.
C. Whimsey?, 11-, 1p, gear.
D. Cosmic Whimp Out?, 11-, 1p, gear.
E. Tree Trimmer?, 11, 1p, bolts & gear?
F. Hung Jury?, 9+, 1p, gear.
G. Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer
, 10- or 11-, 1p, 60', gear.
G. Momentum Operator
, 11-, 1p, 60', gear.
H. White Trash
, 11, 1p, 65', bolts & gear.
I. Crack Up
, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
, 9+/10 PG-13, 1p, 70', gear.
K. Sue's Song?, 10, 1p, gear.
L. Turkish Revenge?, 10, 1p, gear.
M. South Beach
, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
N. Fit for Life
, 12, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
Drive to Castle Rock and park. Go down the gravel road near Country Club Crack, where the road crosses the stream via a bridge. Walk over the bridge to the opposite side of the river (1 minute total, to here) and you are at Broken Rock. A majority of the routes are on the upper right-hand side, within 200 feet of the road. A few lie to the left.
Weather station 2.4 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Broken Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Broken Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Broken Rock:
Featured Route For Broken Rock
Momentum Operator 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c CO
: Boulder Canyon
: Broken Rock
This route would be a classic if it were: A) cleaner, B) on Castle Rock, just 50 meters away. This climb would easily qualify for 3 stars if it were not for the guano on the bottom end of it. (Note - as of 2012, it HAS cleaned up nicely)Approach Broken Rock by parking at Castle Rock and going to the Country Club Crack area. Walk across the little bridge to Broken Rock and go then 50 feet up the hill to the right. You will see an obvious pair of super-steep twin cracks that reach a bomb-bay chimn...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 22, 2005
Please don't bolt the line w/ the fixed nuts, please...
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 19, 2009
The routes on 'The Overlook' are graded pretty mercifully, while the route ratings down below on 'Broken Rock' are pretty stiff. Buyer beware.