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Broken Ladders  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?? (Alam and Roump 1990)
Page Views: 719
Submitted By: Alam on Jul 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Broken Ladders from the top (P2 ) of shoots and la...


This is a single pitch (100') on very nice solid rock with great gear. This could be considered a P3 extension to shoots and ladders, as it starts 25 feet from the top of P2 of shoots and ladders.

Belay in a notch between the wall and large block. Climb double crack for 10-15', then hand traverse on thin crack (crux?) for 15 ' to gain left facing dihedral. Climb this dihedral until it become a crack, flake system on face which finally disappears. Finish by climbing up into large blocks to a sling belay.


Located above shoots and Ladders - Gemstone West.

Rappel - we have always used 2 ropes, but it should be doable with a 65 m rope.


All natural gear - thin to 3.5 inches.

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By Howard Snell
From: Belen, New Mexico
Oct 28, 2012

This is a really enjoyable climb. If you like Flake n Bake but wish it was a bit more challenging then Broken Ladders could be for you. The finger traverse looks thin from below, but it's a great finger crack and takes 0.3" to 0.5" pieces.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

One can rap with a single 60 meter rope. But don't rap by following the route. Instead, follow something closer to a plumb line which eventually drops into a huge right-facing dihedral (climber's view).

Rap Sling Update, Aug 2016: added a tied 9/16" black sling to existing 1" blue which has been up there ~4 years.
By Alam
Jan 7, 2014

The direct line (noted by Bill as the rap) has also been toproped. Start the same crack as broken ladders and climb straight up past a ultrathin crack and then onto a face to finally end at the rap station (5.6-5.7). I have not lead it yet as there is a section (40+) of no gear which would end in ground fall if a mistake was made.

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