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Broken Head 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Bolted by Paul Turecki
Season: Late Spring through Fall
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: Jared LaVacque on Aug 7, 2017

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Broken Head on the Wishbone Wall

Description 

A route originally bolted by Paul Turecki. The crux is a long deadpoint with multiple good feet from a small crimp and sidepull to a sloping left sidepull. Follow the bolts the entire way. The crux starts at bolt one and is almost over deadpointing to where bolt two is. The crux finishes as you set up and clip bolt three. From there follow the arete and face to the anchor.

Crux Spoiler:

The crux is approximately V6 to V7-.
Rotate torso left and inward and latch the sidepull and lock down the thumb, lie back hard, adjust right foot and move to positive crimps and gain the arete. Good rest at the 4/5th and then .11+ slab 2nd crux.

Location 

The middle of the Wishbone wall. Defined by a dark black water streak and arete.

Protection 

6 Bolts with new hardware as of 2016


Photos of Broken Head Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Discussing the beta of Broken Head.
Discussing the beta of Broken Head.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving out of the crux on Broken Head.
Moving out of the crux on Broken Head.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux section of Broken Head
The crux section of Broken Head
Rock Climbing Photo: The Crux section of Broken Head.
The Crux section of Broken Head.

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