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Broken Engagements 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3

   
Type:  Aid, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3 [details]
FA: Luke Malatesta - Jason Lantz, Scott Deputy (Pitch 2&3)
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 659
Submitted By: Luke Malatesta on May 6, 2014

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Pitch 2 during FA

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Aid route located above "top forty" and the far right side of the school room. climb to the top of the school room slabs and continue hard right past a bolt, ending at a bolted belay and the start of the first pitch

    Pitch 1- bolt ladder to beaks and thin pins.Steep. Hanging belay (A3?)

    Pitch 2- More thin pins and arrows to clean gear and a nice ledge. (A2+)

    Pitch 3- 5.10ish ending in an alcove.

    Could continue to the rim but I decided to back off as loose rock end up in the middle of the road, and there is a fair amount of it on the last pitch. Use caution.

    Location 

    Right side of schoolroom #2, above "top 40"

    Protection 

    Lots of beaks and thin pins. Cams to #2 Camalot


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