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Sabbatical Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Fat T 
Big V, The T 
Bon Voyage T 
Broken Dreams T 
Coat Hanger T 
De-Birth T 
Decreation T 
Dust Lung T 
Finger Fun T 
Genetics T 
Immaculate Conception T 
Induced Labor T 
Minute Man T 
Miscarriage T 
Mother  T 
My Son is a Perv! T,TR 
Reincarnation T 
Sabbatical 36 T 
Shotgun Wedding T 
Sperm Bank T 
Stillborn T 
Toss, The T 
Unknown D.F. Route T 
Unknown Flake T 
Womb, The T 
Workin' Man T 
Unsorted Routes:

Broken Dreams 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: G. Lausman, A. Livingston
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 165
Submitted By: Aaron Livingston on Nov 3, 2016

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A wonderful addition to the right side of Sabbatical Wall! The route has a plaque but is easily recognized by 2 finger cracks up high above a roof and stembox. Start with a 30 foot right facing corner with fingers and a large pod to a low anchor (route name and FA unknown). Clip the anchor (or belay here) and head up the obvious stem box on your right. Pull some bouldery moves over the roof and climb tight fingers to 2 good pods. Then get ready for sustained fingers to tips, a bouldery crack switch, and bigger fingers to the anchor! Lower back to the ground with a 70 meter rope. How this route never got climbed before, I have no idea. Do yourself a favor and get on it!

Location 

Located about 100 feet right of the ramp where "Finger Fun" begins. Find the plaque.

Protection 

(3-4 each) blue metolius, (4) .3 camalots, (4) .4 camalots, (4-5) orange metolius, (3-4) .5 camalots, black metolius, #1 camalot, #3 camalots, slings.


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