REI Community
Cave Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bitter Table for One S 
Broken Dreams S 
Divorce Therapy S 
Eman saves Tman S 
Hornass Nest S 
Lords of Karma S 
Manly Woman S 
Matterhorness S 
Meat Gazer S 
Pali Gap S 
Pissed off Mofo S 
Shadows of the Mind S 
T and T S 
Your Flesh is Weak S 

Broken Dreams 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 2008 Tony Lusk, Tony Horness, Andy Tretiakoff, Dave Weeks
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 861
Submitted By: Antoine Horness on Aug 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: so-so photo, bolts visible right of rope all the w...

UPDATE 09/23/11* Warning: Bolt and/or hangers missing. Bolts and/or rock on the far right hand side of this wall may be of questionable integrity. Bolts reportedly pulled on Pali Gap and adjacent routes. Check back for further updates from the FA. MORE INFO >>>


Stem crux above ledge


Fourth route from the north side



Comments on Broken Dreams Add Comment
Show which comments
By David K
Feb 2, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The crux here was super tough for me.
By jonathan horst
From: Tucson, AZ
May 29, 2009

broken dreams...yeah. seriously glued on crux move hold. it's solid though.
By Mike Senigo
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It looks good right of the crux, but its best to stay on the boltline: stem it, get a good pull and grab that solid lip, clip up and enjoy.
By Kyle Coleman
From: St Thomas, VI
Jun 14, 2009

Great climb, but wasn't sure about that hold that has been glued in. Seems solid though.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

the second clip off the ledge is the hardest part of the route. i don't know why it's way off to the left there when all the holds are on the right.
By Adrian Montano
Jul 20, 2017

Crux above ledge was fun despite glued hold. If your belayer isn't attentive here you can deck on the ledge, don't. Any update on the route listed as an open project in SQLIII?

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About