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Cobble Cave (a.k.a. Black Cave)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Desire S 
Broken Desire 43 S 
Cobble Killer S 
Cobbletopia S 
Kick Me in the Jimmy S 

Broken Desire 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ethan Coon,equipped by Hagen Telg
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 693
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jul 27, 2014

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Jesse below the anchors on the first pitch of Brok...

Description 

The steepest route in the area. Overhanging pocket pulling from start to finish. Originally had a higher anchor but after a broken hold resulted in the route being "too futuristic" for now so the anchor was moved down. Pretty sharp holds so try to be precise and controlled. In June 2015, Ed Strang added an extension to this route, Broken Desire 43, that goes at 13b past one more bolt to the higher anchor.

Location 

Right side of the cave. Start just as the ground really starts to slope down.

Protection 

3 bolts to anchor.


Photos of Broken Desire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling hard on the crossover move from the sharp ...
Pulling hard on the crossover move from the sharp ...
Rock Climbing Photo: One has to want it to make the big move at the top...
One has to want it to make the big move at the top...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ethan cutting his feet at the crux. May 2015.
Ethan cutting his feet at the crux. May 2015.
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the clip that then protects the crux move u...
Making the clip that then protects the crux move u...

Comments on Broken Desire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Grindrite
Jul 21, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Fun route!!! Heads Up, clipping hold at second bolt seems a little suspect....
By Andrew Schmalzer
Sep 20, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

~10 moves on mostly positive holds- some power required. Best route we did today, although too short to consider a classic. Felt similar in difficulty to slope a dope at the dungeon.