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Broken Chain 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Joel Unema, JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 714
Submitted By: Joel Unema on Jan 21, 2013

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Broken Chain


Starts to the right of False Prophet. The line is characterized by a large low roof with an "S" shaped crack that starts off the right side of this roof. This line follows the right side of the stembox below the roof, continues out the right side of the roof and finishes on the thin S-crack above. The section 25' below the roof to the roof was cleaned by the equipping party but still has a few flakes and blocks that may be loose, so climb with care. The climbing in this section beneath the roof however is quite moderate and protects well. After the roof, the rock quality is immaculate and the intensity jumps up a few levels.


This route protects well with a double set of cams from BD 000 to fingers, a set of nuts from micro to big finger size, and a single set of cams from 0.5 Camalot to #3 Camalot. The anchor is 2 bolts with chains and biners.


To the right of False Prophet. The next set of anchors right of False Prophet's mark the finish of Broken Chain!

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By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 1, 2013

Thanks to JJ and Wade for putting in the work to make this great climb possible!
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 3, 2013

Right on Joel, nice send. And thanks for taking care of that for us.

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