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Broken Brain 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ???
Season: gets shade in the summer
Page Views: 8,147
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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TC taking the whip.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This is a mega classic. The first half of the climb starts as a not-easy finger crack before getting into a series of hand cracks through pods. The first two pods are easy to jam around; the final, which has a bolt near it, requires one move of leavittation.

This puts you at the base of an awesome headwall, and one of the steepest splitters at the Creek. Go from good hands, to thin hands, to ringlocks, to hard finger stacks as the pump builds! The splitter is a bit offset, so you can't really go hand-over-hand, and every move is harder than the one before it. You will see how it lured Tommy Caldwell into a layback right before he took that famous whipper a few years back. The final mantle from a mediocre fingerlock feels like the crux. I have heard this climb described as "like Rock Lobster, but 30 degrees overhung."!


Perhaps a little to the left of where the approach trail reaches the cliff base. This line is impossible to miss.


one bolt, a few fingers and hands pices for the lower section, and then perhaps three of each from gold camalot down to green camalot for the headwall; then finally one purple (.5).

Photos of Broken Brain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin commencing punchification
Justin commencing punchification
Rock Climbing Photo: Yeah, it's a pretty cool line.
Yeah, it's a pretty cool line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin sending it to the moon!
Justin sending it to the moon!
Rock Climbing Photo: Steven sending
Steven sending
Rock Climbing Photo: Dream climb
Dream climb

Comments on Broken Brain Add Comment
Show which comments
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Nov 29, 2006

Check out Return2Sender for the video beta...
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 26, 2011

FA Petro?
By chris Kalous
Apr 9, 2012

Funny. Remembering Vera topping out in the Return2sender video at the last milli-second saved me. Luckily, I had that vision rather than the Tommy picture!
By Loganator
From: blue van, on the highway to no
Feb 29, 2016

Anybody know why there's a bolt on this guy? It seems unnessary.
By doligo
Mar 1, 2016

So the crack doesn't eat up the cam and to keep the rope out of the crack?

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