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Broken Arrow 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 773
Submitted By: aaron hope on Dec 29, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Alejandro Lozano going for the second clip

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This is a really fun climb. The protection is good except for the runout to the first bolt. The book calls the runout 5.5, but I think most folks would find it even easier and secure. The hard stuff comes after the second bolt and remains fairly sustained until you cross over the arête. Good stemming allows for some rests.


Go up the obvious slab, around the corner from Ordeal and Buffalo Soldier. The slab is to the left of the Verdict.

After the fifth bolt, traverse left around the arête. Once you hit the arête, the holds are big and cozy. The latest guide book directs you to clip the bolt around the arête on Buffalo Solider and going straight up from there. However, the rope drag gets really bad if you do this and I recommend going up on the arête on big holds and reaching out right to clip the last bolt on the direct variation and then going straight up from there.


6 bolts

Photos of Broken Arrow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Erick Santos following on the crux
Erick Santos following on the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Just clipped the first bolt on Broken Arrow. The r...
BETA PHOTO: Just clipped the first bolt on Broken Arrow. The r...

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By Mei
Jan 30, 2017

In my observation, people tend to underestimate this route (despite the bailout variation).

Beta: the two anchor bolts (shared by Buffalo Soldier and Here Comes the Judge) are way back (10 feet?) on the ground. If top roping setup is intended, bring long cordelette so the directional anchor is over the edge.

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