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Broken Arrow  T 
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Less is More S 
Thief Among Us S 

Broken Arrow  

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Evan Phillips, Skinny Boynton, Andy Hoyt, Dan Kryger (2000)
Page Views: 164
Submitted By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Aug 14, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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This is an fun crack climb to the right of Thief. The gear is goofy and placing it might be the crux of the route. It climbs the crack through locks, side pulls and a few good jams. The climb breaks left near the top into a nice open book. Either clip the piton here, or skip it and reach around the corner right to the bolt, and then pull the last couple moves to the chains.


This route is located on the second tier. It is directly to the right of thief.


gear to 2 inches, 2 bolts and one piton, Two bolt anchor.

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By The Shocker
Jun 30, 2015

FA by Evan Phillips and Jared ? From 'Merica
By evanphillipsak
Oct 7, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

FA: Phillips, Boynton, Kryger, Hoyt (July 2000)
By JJ Tower
May 23, 2016

Welded nut below crux courtesy of rare Alaskan Mountain Gnome Dommelheimer
By The Shocker
May 24, 2016

Shouldn't you be able to climb the 5.10s in Eagle River without whipping and sticking gear before you start downgrading the 5.12s in Chickaloon? Millenials....
By L. Von Dommelheimer
From: Anchorage
May 24, 2016

Don't you have something better to do Andy? I've stopped putting credence in anything you say, and I imagine it must suck to watch a new generation of climbers who are more motivated to climb than get stoned. You weren't there when I fell on that 5.10, therefore you really don't have a thing to offer other than your normal, sour, commentary, since you don't know what the circumstances were.
By The Shocker
May 24, 2016

I don't put a lot of credence in the opinion of someone who downgrades 5.12s that can't get up a 5.10. And I've got much better things to do with my time than flail at an overcrowded grid bolted crag with a bunch of townies. Like exploring the next crag that will be retrobolted, glued, squeezejobbed, and downgraded by a bunch of narcissistic beaters when the word gets out about it it ten years. From the comfort of my wheelchair, with a bong duct taped to my hands, of course....
By L. Von Dommelheimer
From: Anchorage
May 25, 2016

Nice assumption :) I remember you being there now.

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