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Broke Dick T 
Scheherazade T 

Broke Dick 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Evan Deis, Tony Bubb, Joseffa Meir, Kateri Ahrendt, 10/2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 220
Submitted By: Evan Deis on Oct 11, 2015

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Joseffa Meir follows the FA of 'Broke Dick (5.11) ...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the widest crack at the crag, slightly up and left of the overlook. Chimney and jam and wriggle for a half rope length until you gain a narrow walkway. Belay here. Continue 15 feet up and right to the top of the formation and belay from a Juniper. Walk off to the right and rap from the Scheherazade slings.

Location 

Above the first overlook on Shafer road (before the switchbacks).

Protection 

Big gear. 2x #4, 2x #5, and an optional 9" piece.
Some hand sized pieces for the belay.


Photos of Broke Dick Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First lead on "broke dick."
BETA PHOTO: First lead on "broke dick."

Comments on Broke Dick Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 9, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

The poster completely sandbagged the grade here. This is 5.11 and Off-width.
By Evan Deis
Mar 10, 2016

That probably true Tony.

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