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(2) Brogan Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barred Reality T,S 
Cave Route T 
Death Of a Raven S 
Pouches S 
Short Sharp Shock S 
Smash the Silence S 
South Buttress T 
Under the Gun S 
Walking on Broken Glass S 
West Face T 

(2) Brogan Spire Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 300'
Location: 44.36826, -121.12385 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,190
Administrators: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 8, 2006

66° | 39°

69° | 41°

71° | 44°

75° | 40°

78° | 41°

78° | 45°
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Brogan Spire on a bluebird day

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Home to a wide variety of climbs from a 4 star 5.6 multipitch outing (Cave Route)to a brand new 14.b (The Optomist) as well as a decent selection of routes in between.
Well worth the hike.

Getting There 

Follow the trail past Koala Rock. and the Great Roof will be obvious with the spire above (see picture). Routes are listed from the North face below the "Brogan Spire" and then going counter-clockwise around the crag (through the scramble between Brogan Spire and Mini-Half Dome)

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.2 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in (2) Brogan Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (2) Brogan Spire:
West Face   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
South Buttress   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Cave Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Death Of a Raven   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   
Short Sharp Shock   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Walking on Broken Glass   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 40'   
Pouches   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (2) Brogan Spire

Featured Route For (2) Brogan Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate Tack pulls on some Pouches

Pouches 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Oregon : Smith Rock : ... : (2) Brogan Spire
Start on jugs, semi-jugs, and good crimps. Keep cool for the powerful crux, which comes at roughly mid-height. I had to cut my feet on the throw at the crux - something I rarely have to do for a moderate route at Smith. The finish is a rightward traverse. It looks like it's going to turn sinister at any moment, but just enjoy it, the hardest is behind you. It's well-protected and is one of those rare Smith moderates that requires a bit of power and dynamism. Combine all this with the fact th...[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

Photos of (2) Brogan Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: wahoo!
Rock Climbing Photo: soloing on brogan
soloing on brogan
Rock Climbing Photo: on the summit spire
on the summit spire
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Smith Rock State Park from the summit of B...
View of Smith Rock State Park from the summit of B...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on the summit of Brogan Spire above the Gr...
Climber on the summit of Brogan Spire above the Gr...

Comments on (2) Brogan Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
Apr 11, 2006
anyone know about the route just right of Beth Rodden's new 5.14? It starts with huge holds in huecos and is sort of half moon shaped, left then back right.
It's 11.b or so...?? Quite good.
By mark d
Apr 19, 2006
i haven't done this route, but it's called, pouches 11c.
By corvegas
From: the depths of oregon
May 15, 2006
That's not really Beth Rodden's new 5.14. That climb is actually called The Great Roof, which was climbed on aid in 1966 with many fewer bolts. Ethics at Smith were lost and bolts were added, not by Beth. This brought down the adventure level of a route that could be enjoyed by more people, still into the art of placing protection. Those bolts should be chopped. It should be freed when the natural protection readily available on that climb is used.
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 20, 2006
Is there really enough natural protection for The Optimist to go with natural protection? From the video it looked like Beth was using a lot of pin scars and not much else in that crack.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Nov 10, 2011
If rappelling from the chains on the Cave Route side of the summit: (the first set encountered while on that route)
thread your ropes through the higher rap ring on the left bolt to avoid a heinously difficult rope pull/stuck rope.

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