REI Community
Sunset North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sense of Adventure T 
Alpha Omega T 
Ambidextrous T 
Another Fallen Angel T 
Arena, The T 
Banshee T 
Beginner's Route T 
Bill's Route T 
Broemel's Route T 
Broken Arrow T 
Bubble Bath T 
Cobb, The T 
Copperhead T 
Cornerstone T 
Crazy Eights T 
Devil Dog T 
Diamond, The T 
Fault Line T 
Flagstone T 
Flute Loops T 
Fool's Gold T 
Friday the Thirteenth T 
Ghost Dancers T 
Golden Ledges T 
Grand Cave, The T 
Heavy Hands T 
Hit the Slopers T 
Horribilus Maximus T 
In the Corner T 
Jams and Shams T 
Jefferson Airplane T 
Jennifer's World T 
Jungle Gym T 
Lefthand Crack T,TR 
Lichen to Lose It T 
Mineral Fright T 
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 
Nuclear Blue T 
One-Ten T 
Peace and Tranquility  T 
Prisoners of Zenda T 
Prow, The T 
R.J. Gold T 
Righthand Crack T,TR 
Rusty's Crack T 
S'More T 
Scare Voyager T 
Scream Wall T 
Scream Wall Direct T 
Slip Stream T 
Space Ranger T 
Spring Break T 
Stan's Crack T 
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 
Stitch in Time T 
Sunset Boulevard T 
Tantrum T 
Terrier in Trouble T 
Test Tube T 
Thin Pockets T 
Toothpick T 
Total Eclipse T 
Towers Chimney T 
Water in Motion T 
Womb, The T 

Broemel's Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: David Broemel, Steve Jones, Bill Smith - 1970s
Page Views: 1,362
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Getting past the wide section on Broemel's!


Broemel's is yet another nice choice from among a high concentration of quality routes in a small section of Sunset North (others include RJ Gold and Jefferson Airplane). The climbing is sustained and stiff for the grade, like so many other Sunset routes, but protection is plentiful.

Broemel's Route has a somewhat awkward roofy start on what the Dixie Cragger politely calls "suspect rock." This leads into a shallow flaring dihedral with a nice hand crack, followed by face climbing and a roof or two, then a headwall finale similar to Bill's Route. As with the other routes in this area, take a moment to relax and enjoy the view of the valley before you lower/rap.


Starts at trailside about 30' left of the Bill's Route/Jefferson Airplane/RJ Gold ledge. Look for a prominent protruding block above a left-facing dihedral/crack system.


Take a full range up to 3"; some big gear can come in handy. Ring anchors at the top.

Comments on Broemel's Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Aug 6, 2007

The rock isn't as nice as on the other nearby classics, but a challenging, fun climb nevertheless. I was wishing for my #4 Camalot in the big crack down low. Tip: traversing to the crack system too low makes it a lot more work.
By Joey Wolfe
Jul 15, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

a #4 does make the transition into the crack less mental.

There is a small crack a little higher that will take a blue alien if you don't have a #4.

Watch for the large flexing flake, before you exit the crack system for the face to the left, up high. Either bury one down low or as a buddy of mine does (i didn't) put a cam on both sides to pin it. This will make sense when you see it.
By Brad Stewart
From: ATL
Jun 18, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb. I think I actually enjoyed this one more than Stan's Crack.
By Jordan Simon
May 21, 2017

Most spots have a #4 walking back or almost tipping out unless you go really far back in the lower crack. A #5 seems more appropriate personally, if you're looking to put a big piece in there. Great climb!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About