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Broadside  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 14 pitches, 1800', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: T. Auger & J. Blench, 1994
Page Views: 80
Submitted By: Tom Gnyra on Apr 18, 2016

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Description 

From Chris Perry's Old guidebook

Located on the upper left portion of the northwest face are two prominent corners. The route starts in a right-trending crack line well right of the corners and finishes on excellent rock in a subcorner and crack system between them. The lower half of the route is characterized by poor rock and easy climbing but, as on the prow, the quality of the rock improves considerably higher up

1) 40 m, 5.8 Climb over a small bulge at the foot of the crack and follow it for about 40 m to broken ground, which leads up left.

2) 45 m, 5.8 Scramble up lower-angled rock and climb a steep, loose crack system, bypassing an overhanging section on its left side.

3) 45 m, 5.9 Begin on the right and climb steep, loose, blocky rock, again bypassing difficult ground on its left side.

4) 60 m, 4th Follow easier broken ground trending quite far left until below several possible lines in blocky corners.

5) 50 m, 5th Continue left and up in a series of chimneys and corners following the easiest line.

6) 50 m, 5th More easy ground up and left leads to a point almost directly below the upper left-hand corner.

7) 35 m At a terrace-like area, begin moving back right.

8) 50 m, 5.9 Climb up and right to the top of a shallow buttress on an edge overlooking a huge right-facing corner system that ends in overhangs. Face-climb up and left (5.9) to reach two parallel cracks that offer good climbing. Belay a short distance below a small roof.

9) 25 m, 5.8 Make a difficult move over the roof and continue up to a belay.

10) 25 m Continue up and left to the base of a striking corner.

11) 25 m, 5.9 Climb the corner to a good ledge on the left.

12) 30 m, 5.9 Continue up the corner and the face above to reach a terrace.

13) 35 m, 5.9 Walk 10 m to the right and climb the face making difficult moves past a bolt at about 3 m. Continue for a further 5 m and then follow a small, easier ramp leading left. Belay on broken ledges on the outside corner.

14) 35 m Traverse 10 m left and finish up the easy gully at the top of the left-hand major corner.

Protection 

standard rack, pins maybe.


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