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Broad Street Bully T 
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Broad Street Bully 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Cory Barber & Tom Kempinski
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 273
Submitted By: Terramariner on Aug 8, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Broad Street Bully 5.8

Description 

From the same grass ledge as DSD, move left on a short crack under a small roof (other options with less pro possible) to a sloping grass ramp. From there climb intermittent cracks just right of the white patch of rock and left of the arching handcrack. Once past the overlap head for the arete. Follow the arete for a couple bolts to a horizontal crack. Climb the right side of the bulge to a bolt then up to a crack before scrambling to the anchor.

Make sure to extend placements or suffer the rope drag as you claw up moss to the anchor. Use knots if rapping with a 60m. There's also short yet very exposed scramble/walkoff to the right of the anchor.

Location 

Scramble up to the large grass ledge to the left of Garden Party Buttress located under a series of roofs and corners. The climb is located on a face left of Dick Swagger Dihedral.

Protection 

thin gear to #1 camalot and slings
3 bolts
2 bolt anchor


Photos of Broad Street Bully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cory checking out his gear options on Broad Street...
Cory checking out his gear options on Broad Street...

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