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Broad Expectations 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Brent Jeffry and Jeff Twait
Page Views: 215
Submitted By: sfotex on Aug 12, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is how I've been climbing it, you can go more direct to make it harder. Start in the corner to left, go up a bit in corner, lean out, and clip the 1st bolt, move right then up to jug, clip 2nd bolt. Move up on a sidepull, a sloper, and a small crimp then left towards corner. Clip third bolt. Move up a bit, then traverse right into plimsol line. Clip 4th bolt (part of plimsol, weird clip), Finish on plimsol line.

Location 

Between Kid Gloves and Plimsol Line. 2nd route from left. Joins Plimsol Line at the 4th clip.

Protection 

5 bolts +anchors.
2 and 3rd are permadraws.


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By Ben Ricketts
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 11, 2017
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This is a fun line that I had been avoiding for years because of the fire pit at its base. Turns out I didn't even notice the soot stains while climbing. I started from the right and clipped the first bolt from a crimp. After that its interesting boulder problem after boulder problem. Its a good line that I found more fun than Plimsol.
By David DeFranza
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 16, 2017

This line looks great but the fixed draws seem to have been exposed to fire recently. Their bolt hangers are blackened and the dog bones feel a bit, I don't know, crispy. Obviously, use your own discretion but those vintage DMM Mamba draws gave me some pause, for sure.

Considering the unfortunate and ongoing fire activity at the base, this might be a good candidate for some wire-slung draws.

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