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Broad Axe 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest, Seth Dyer 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 727
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jan 25, 2015

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A classic layback switch move with a perfectly imp...

Description 

The broad axe has been around for thousands of years and was used for both felling trees, and hewing rough timber into useable lumber. It was an essential tool for any tradesman or pioneer back in the day.

The first 40' of this pitch is vertical, semi sequential pulling between hard to see pockets, finger buckets, and jugs.

After a natural ramp break, the second section climbs varnished edges and side pulls up a couple of beautiful black and bronze streaks. This lower angle, semi technical section will keep you on your toes, and your mind focused though there are actually very generous holds.

From a semi shared stance with Rusty Blade, lay back up the namesake black axe blade shaped feature to a distant sloping rail. A lone solution pocket above the sloping rail lets you do a classy layback switch move to varnished crimps over the lip, which quickly turn to wrapper jugs as the angle breaks.

A great pitch for the grade, and a nice warm up for the harder lines.

Location 

First route you will encounter hiking up to the Main Wall. Left of two small pine trees, left of Rusty Blade

Protection 

12 lead bolts
2 bolt chain anchor
14 draws total


Photos of Broad Axe Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: JJ pulling through the final crux moves on the FA.
JJ pulling through the final crux moves on the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: JJ lay backing the Axe, and moving into the crux o...
JJ lay backing the Axe, and moving into the crux o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Broad Axe photo topo.
BETA PHOTO: Broad Axe photo topo.

Comments on Broad Axe Add Comment
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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 13, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I'll be the first to say it. 4 stars

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