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British Columbia Rock Climbing 

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Location: 49.2777, -123.1334 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 15, 2007

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Canada's westernmost province is very fortunate to have some of the mildest climates in the country combined with some of the best rock and mountains around. Marquee areas like Squamish, Skaha and the Bugaboos are only the tip of the iceberg.

Getting There 

Vancouver is easily accessed by air from anywhere and is about three or four hours drive from Seattle. Vancouver puts you within two hours drive of vast amounts of climbing, centered on but not limited to Squamish.

Penticton, in the interior, is about a five hour drive from Vancouver and can be accessed by air either directly or by flying to nearby Kelowna. Skaha is main destination here, but there are other quality locations in the area.

The coastal range is accessed, with difficulty from Vancouver, or by boat or plane.

Vancouver Island, which is home to some good climbing, fine mountaineering, and great trails (like the West Coast Trail) can be reached by ferry from Vancouver, or by flying to the Victoria International Airport.

The more recently developed areas on the Sunshine Coast such as the Eldred Valley are accessed by ferry from Vancouver. There appears to be a lot of potential in this area for huge first ascents.

For the Rockies, which are closer to the border with Alberta, access for out-of-towners is often via Calgary, although the drive can be done from from Vancouver in seven to ten hours depending on your destination.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.0 miles from here

3,240 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',393],['3 Stars',1259],['2 Stars',1157],['1 Star',311],['Bomb',19]

Classic Climbing Routes in British Columbia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for British Columbia:
West Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
Kain Route (South Ridge)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Klahanie Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Squamish : Shannon Falls
North East Ridge   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Skywalker   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 300'   Squamish : Shannon Falls
Diedre   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches   The Chief : The Apron
Star Chek   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 3 pitches, 400'   The Gorge : Galaxy Buttress
Penny Lane   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Smoke Bluffs : Penny Lane
Rock On   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   The Chief : The Apron
McTech Arete   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Angel's Crest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 13 pitches   The Chief : The Sheriff's Badge
Beckey-Chouinard   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000'   Howser Towers : South Howser Tower
Exasperator   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   The Chief : Grand Wall Base Area
Bulletheads East   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   The Bulletheads : Bulletheads, Central
Sunset Strip   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 12 pitches   The Chief : The Dihedrals
The Great Game   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Squamish : Slhanay (The Squaw)
The Grand Wall   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0     Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000'   The Chief : Grand Wall Area
Sunshine Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Crime of the Century   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Smoke Bluffs : Penny Lane
Freeway   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 11 pitches   The Chief : The Dihedrals
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in British Columbia

Featured Route For British Columbia
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2

Bulletheads East 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  North America : Canada : ... : Bulletheads, Central
A great, reclaimed route at the Bulletheads. The first pitch is so-so, but after that three pitches of quality 5.10 crack climbing await. Nice shady ledges offer a relaxing environment, and the descent is easy with raps. This is sure to become a popular route!A short rap is required when rapping P3 (intermediate chains down and right). A short rap is also required to hit the ground. Even with a 70m rope. See the topos.Thread on Squamish Climbing about the route...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of British Columbia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Emperor Face and North Face of Mt. Robson, jus...
BETA PHOTO: The Emperor Face and North Face of Mt. Robson, jus...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joffre Formation looking mighty fine. Beautiful hi...
Joffre Formation looking mighty fine. Beautiful hi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The South Face of Mt Waddington, June 2000.
The South Face of Mt Waddington, June 2000.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Sky Pilot Group from the Chief.  Can someone c...
The Sky Pilot Group from the Chief. Can someone c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Garibaldi Mountain from the Chief.
Garibaldi Mountain from the Chief.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the Joffre formation from the Joffre...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the Joffre formation from the Joffre...

Comments on British Columbia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Winter
Feb 18, 2010
Climbers' Access Society of B.C.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Sep 23, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: The climbing beta on this map is a mile wide and a...
The climbing beta on this map is a mile wide and an inch deep. Please use the site search function and map names to get more.

Rock Climbing Photo: Photos by Scott Visscher
Photos by Scott Visscher

The Blarney Stone is only eight kilometer outside British Columbia. I added it to create more artistic balance for the map. Not much else up in northern BC to interest rock climbers.

Also, the American Alpine Journal reported a different name in 2013. Neither the 2013 party nor the locals in Haines have actually climbed it. However, the name Blarney Stone has used by Alaskan climbers for about three decades. Yes, I am both correcting the AAJ (sorry) and giving away highly classified information to my fellow dreamers (unclimbed wall on an unclimbed mountain).
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 23, 2013
Not to contradict Peter Spindloe (who, as you may note, lives NORTH of Vancouver) regarding flying into Vancouver and exploring British Columbia from there, but save yourself a lot headache and bother by avoiding Vancouver, BC altogether. Fly into Bellingham, WA, fill up your gas tank at Costco, and take Hwy. 1 east around Vancover. Vancouver is congested, there are "red light" cameras everywhere, and the citizens are rude (sorry, not all, just too many). We loved BC and everyone outside of Vancouver was helpful and friendly. Join the Access Society of BC and the Squamish Access Society. These great organizations help to keep our crags open to climbers!

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