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Bright Star  

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: Ed Webster 1984, FFA Roger Briggs/Topher Donahue, 2001
Season: June - August
Page Views: 1,070
Submitted By: hkennedy on Jul 7, 2016

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Bright Star is a hidden gem and one of the more sustained 5.11+ routes on the Diamond. The climbing is high quality and offers some very unique face climbing throughout the entire route. I would say that Bright Star is much better than D7 or Ariana.

P1. 5.11+ R. From the left side of the Broadway Bivouac Cave, start by climbing steep jugs to obvious, thin crack. Bust some 5.11 moves to gain an obvious ledge, this section is a bit spicy. Easy climbing leads to a piton just below an obvious, thin splitter. Spicy 5.11+ laybacking leads to easier 5.11- terrain to a nice belay ledge with fixed slings on a block.

P2. 5.11. Varied crack climbing and face climbing with good protection, steep and very fun 5.11, lead to a fixed belay just below a bolted traverse that trends left.

P3. 5.11+. Amazing, left-trending face climbing protected by old bolts gains a steep flake system. At the top of the flake, an easier 5.10+ ramp trends left. Keep your eyes out for the final 5.11 traverse back and right to a fixed belay on a good ledge.

P4. 5.11+. Spicy climbing above the anchor in a offset crack gains more juggy, face climbing. Near the top of this pitch, trend back to the right to a two bolt anchor on a sloping ledge.

P5,. 5.11+. Clip two copperheads above the belay, and traverse right to more old bolts. A very cool crimp rail leads to a thin crack that splits the wall. Burly 5.11+ laybacking in a right-facing corner, dealing with all the vegetation, adds to the overall experience of this pitch. Belay on a big ledge, The Casual Route shares this same belay.

P6. 5.10. The "slot pitch" on The Casual Route that gains Table Ledge. Belay at the ledge on pitons and cams.

P7. 5.11+. Climb the plum line just above the belay with varied sizes. Weave left on face holds, and climb to the left side of the huge roof. Belay above the roof to the right on a comfy stance.

P8. 5.11. Cracks and corners lead to the summit.


Bright Star starts just left of the Broadway Bivouac Cave, basically the next route to the right of The Yellow Wall.


Standard Diamond rack.

Comments on Bright Star Add Comment
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By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2016

Thanks for adding this, Hayden!

Jesse made P1 sound pretty serious - 5.11 X status - would you agree?

Also is there any more beta for finding the start of the route?
By hkennedy
Jul 9, 2016

P1 is certainly "engaging", and that's all I will say....
By Abel Jones
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2016

The first pitch wasn't too bad. No ledge fall potential so only slightly R. Just have your small gear ready. I followed the above description and ended up missing the point during pitch 4 that I should have angled slightly left into juggy terrain and found myself in another harder spicy crux that lead to a good-sized ledge but off route and difficult to get back on. I bailed from there and can't comment on anything above. The description in the new RMNP book says angle leftish into juggy 5.10 terrain on pitch 4, and I'd recommend doing so after the first 11ish crux. The variation I took was awesome though, and the climbing above looked harder than 11+ if anyone wants a challenge.
By ejesse
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 9, 2017

This is one of if not the best routes on The Diamond. Every pitch is solid, sustained and engaging. (I still need to do the last 2 above Table Ledge). If you use the topo, follow the descriptions as there are some old aid bolts that could otherwise lead you to hesitate or veer off route Our rack worked fine as singles to #3, doubles to #1, RPs, and a handful of offset nuts.

If you have time to clean 40' of the 3rd 11+ pitch, you'd help the route a lot. The section of the crack directly below where the Yellow Wall crux traverse links into the route. You could easily rap down from the Yellow Wall bivy ledge to get there. I had to do some flower picking, but my partner then got it onsight, so maybe it's clean enough.

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