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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 
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Bridget the Midget 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Harrison, Brooks, Stuberg 81
Page Views: 723
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Dec 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Updated conditions of route, 6/1/17.

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  • Description 

    This is almost a great route. There is some really fun climbing on surprisingly good rock and really good gear at the cruxes. This section of cliff is more often than not overlooked for pretty obvious reasons (i.e. it looks like crap). With some more traffic, the lichen could clean up nicely. The only other drawback is the loose rock on the top ledge. If you were not careful, you could kill someone on the trail.

    Where the trail hits the rock, there is a shallow dihedral that leads to a left-facing flake/crack. A #4 is useful here. Cruise up that crack and head towards a tree right above you. Before this tree, look for a hand ledge that leads right into the obvious, left-facing dihedral (#4 here also, or sling a chockstone). Head up nice jugs to a little ledge under the crux dihedral that is capped by a tiny tree/bush. Nice sharp finger locks and stemming get you through here with a good nut or TCU for pro. 20 more easy feet put you on the rotten ledge where the 2nd pitch of Rhombohedral begins.

    Location 

    Left of Rhombohedral where the trail meets the rock. From the top, it is an easy scramble (down and right) over to the rappel tree. New cord, as of today, and a single 70 gets you down.

    Protection 

    SR, 2 #4s and 2 #3s could be helpful but not mandatory....


    Photos of Bridget the Midget Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: LOOSE ROCK: updated 6/1/17.
    BETA PHOTO: LOOSE ROCK: updated 6/1/17.
    Rock Climbing Photo: A close up of the crux dihedral.
    A close up of the crux dihedral.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top in the crux dihedral.
    Near the top in the crux dihedral.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Low on the route about to engage the jagged flake.
    Low on the route about to engage the jagged flake.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The route starts in the shallow dihedral left of c...
    BETA PHOTO: The route starts in the shallow dihedral left of c...

    Comments on Bridget the Midget Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Dec 29, 2010
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    This is a fun pitch. Better than pitch one of the Rhombohedral. If this was combined with the last pitches of the Rhombohedral, it would approach a three star climb.
    By s.kimball
    Feb 8, 2013

    The 20 ft. fingercrack crux is the only decent section of this 120 ft pitch, the rest is a teetering stack of rotten blocks, especially the initial pillar/flake which will soon be scattered about the trail.
    By Benjamn P
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 2, 2017

    I barely touched and pulled off a 4', human-sized flake before the finger crack ledge yesterday. Probably has been a lot of rain and weathering that has removed the mud holding in this rotten block since S. Kimball's comment above. There still is another future sketchy flake being jammed with mud below the one I pulled, but it doesn't currently move. It will probably come lose in the next couple of years with wet weather and freeze/thaw! The route is cleaner but not completely solid stone yet!

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