|Type:||Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 700', Grade VI|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c A3+ R [details]|
|FA:||Ed Webster 1978?|
|Submitted By:||Anonymous Coward on Oct 18, 2002|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Brer Rabbit||Add Comment|
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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 22, 2016
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 22, 2002
|Enjoyed watching y'all on the route this weekend. I took pictures of you guys standing on top of the Cottontail from near the top of the Kingfisher, so send me your email address and i'll send the pictures to you when they are developed.|
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 30, 2004
|Amazing route. Hats off to Ed Webster. I noticed that this route description states that Nuts are "useless". I disagree. We found that large hexes pounded sideways into the back of flares were really effective. They just seemed to bite right in. I'd say that a selection of about 5 or 6 med. to large hexes would be enough. These are also alot lighter than bongs which we didn't use nearly as much as the hexes. Also, the "5.11" mantle is no scarier or harder than any of the other free sections you have to do on just about every pitch. This is no "stopper" move. Just one like many, many others. The fact that Ed pieced this together by himself is really impressive. What a tower! Scott Rourke|
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 16, 2005
|Can you rap this route or are you better off rapping road kill??|
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 19, 2005
|I bet it would suck to rap Brer Rabbit.|
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Mar 3, 2006
|Does anyone know if there are rap stations from the bivy cave down to the trail so that ropes could be fixed to the bivy cave?|
Mar 9, 2006
We climbed this route clean on 3/4-5/06.Tricky(maybe desperate)in a few spots but overall n.t.b.,C3/+?.Sawed angles,offsets,loweballs,tri-
cams,"fraid" moves etc..the usual fishers stuff.The crux pitch was
climbed clean on an earlier attempt in Jan.The craziest placement being the two smallest loweballs stacked and shoved up into a blind
L.A.slot! There are some somewhat scary runout situations on the
harder pitches.We hand hauled a small pack and it sucked due to all
the traversing sections.Overall an awesome route but exhausting.
Great effort by Ed,solo,in the 70's,sans modern gizmos...
All the rap stations down road kill need revamping.From the anchors
at the end of pitch 4 you can fix down and right to an old station
on a slab w/2 stardryves,then to the ground(2 60m ropes).That station
is directly below the bivy cave.
-Miles Newby & Marcus Garcia
Mar 16, 2006
The bivy cave is plush but hauling on this thing would be a nightmare.
You could leave all your gear at the cave and go for the summit but
getting back to the bivy would be tedious at best.I thought the ledge
atop pitch 3 would be a better bivy because it's right on the ridge.
Best to just fix then cruise it the next day. Wear your rock shoes
if the're comfy.We had no problem freeing with our beat up approach
shoes.If your sack is feeling particularly big on this route then you
could free up to 5.11 and beyond. Certainly subjective, but we were freeing stuff that seemed mandatory 5.10(for us).We were also in some sort or weird twilight zone (at least I was) on this route - it felt
alot different than the other towers here and I was glad to get back
to terra firma.
By Paul Gagner
Apr 4, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2 PG13
1x set small cams
3x Camalots #1 - 3, 1x #3.5 - 5
A few stoppers and large HB off-sets
Lots of shoulder lengthers
Jeremy used some large Peckers and a few sawed-offs on the 5th pitch
Bring a bolt kit - we had to replace one sheared bolt on the last pitch to the ridge
There are good anchors dropping straight down from the shoulder / ridge(end of pitch 7) Don't go to the side, just 3 raps straight down.
By Ben Kiessel
Apr 21, 2009
Bill, Brad and I climbed this last weekend. Here are some thoughts.
-This was my favorite route I have done in the fishers thus far.
-We fixed 5 pitches on day one and then climbed the rest on day 2.
-On pitch 3 it says to engineer moves straight right off the belay then climb up a bolt ladder. Bill led this pitch and followed the description and had some troubles. I would suggest trying to free climb straight up 10' to a new 3/8" bolt and then traverse right to the bolt ladder. If you manage your rope drag and climb up like I suggest you should be able to link pitches 2 and 3 no problem.
-Bill also led pitch 6 and says the wide section was the hardest thing he has ever climbed. I call bullshit he had just finished jugging 500'. That being said bring a #6 camalot and pull on it.
-Jumping the gap on pitch 7 is sweet!
-Brad found out that you can aid through the 11R mantel on pitch 8 if you are willing to place some peckers.
-We climbed a pitch between pitch 8 and pitch 9 that is not described. We will call it pitch 8.5 to keep the confusion down. I traversed way right off the belay on what I thought was pitch 9 and had to climb back all the way to the anchor. Pitch 8.5 goes as follows: Climb a hand crack above the belay for 10' walk along the ridge to a window. Sling the window with a long cord. Traverse another few feet to a bolt ladder consisting of two 1/4" bolts. Aid the bolts to a mantel and 3/8" stud. Free climb past the stud to a ledge and an anchor. The pitch is only 50-70' long but the rope drag was horrid. Possibly Brad was supposed to skip the anchor that he stopped at?
-Pitch 8- Again DON'T traverse right off the belay. Free climb another hand crack in a dihedral above the belay for about 40' to a slung horn. Tension traverse right off the horn to a hidden fixed pecker. Lower off the pecker into a gully with the bolt ladder. This was pretty simple and will avoid the scary 50' traverse right off the belay.
-We added one 3/8" bolt to 3 of the belays.
-We fixed a line on pitch 9 for the rappel, and don't know how we would have gotten back to the anchor without it. (you only need one rope for the last pitch.)
-The route is sweet! Do it.
By Bill Grasse
From: Carbondale, CO.
May 6, 2009
"-Bill also led pitch 6 and says the wide section was the hardest thing he has ever climbed. I call bullshit he had just finished jugging 500'. That being said bring a #6 camalot and pull on it."--Ben Kiessel
-While it may not really be the hardest thing I have ever climbed, it WAS the hardest thing that I have every climbed with a summer sausage in my pocket!
By Brad Brandewie
Jul 11, 2009
More photos and a TR at piquaclimber.net
Nov 22, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 PG13
awesome route! my partner lukas and i did 11.5hrs to the summit, 14 up and down. plenty of opportunity to short fix pitches.
#2 and #3 pecker x 2
a few sawed angles
one set of offset nuts
set of offset master cams
one set of master cams
#5 and #6 x 1
fix a rope from the top of p. 8 to 9 hourglass belay. its a clean pull but takes some shenanigans to get back to the belay.. helps to have first person down clip a directional piece on the ridge. from top of p 8 rap to p 7. from there its 3 long raps STRAIGHT down. anchors are hard to see in the dark as they are under bulges.
expect a long day.
follow your nose and dont get suckered into any traversing right when you think you should go straight up.....