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Brenta Spire

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South Ridge T 

Brenta Spire Rock Climbing 


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Location: 51.11577, -116.825 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Hans on Jan 23, 2015
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BETA PHOTO: July 2014 South ridge of Brenta Spire epic 4th cla...

Description 

Brenta Spire stands to the north of the main group of spires in the Bugaboos. The rock quality is generally quite good, though the routes on it have more of a mountaineering feel compared to the rock climbing routes of the rest of the spires. By far the most common route is the south ridge, which can be climbed on its own or as part of the popular Brenta Spire - Northpost Spire traverse.

Getting There 

The approach varies depending on the route chosen.

For the south ridge you will need to access the Brenta Spire-Crescent Spire col. I will describe two ways to reach this col.

1. From Applebee camp hike north through the col between Eastpost Spire and the Crescent Towers. Descent snow slopes passing to the base of a valley. Scramble west through large boulders to a point just below the Brenta-Crescent col. A ledge system, beginning at climber's right, zig-zags up the wall to the col itself. There is some exposure along this ledge system but no real difficulty.

2. Climb to the col between Crescent Spire and the Crescent Towers. This col can be reached directly by scrambling up a loose gully. Alternately you can climb a route on the Crescent Towers such as McTech Arete or Paddle Flake and traverse over the summit of Crescent Spire from left to right.

From the Crescent Spire-Crescent Towers col descend north over easy terrain towards Brenta Spire. Eventually you will a reach a narrowing ridge crest where a short low 5th class downclimb leads to easier terrain and the Brenta Spire-Crescent Spire col.

Climbing Season

For the Columbia Mountains area.

Weather station 12.8 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Brenta Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Brenta Spire:
South Ridge   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     Trad, Alpine   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Brenta Spire

Featured Route For Brenta Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: The south ridge of Brenta Spire, seen from the sum...

South Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b  North America : Canada : ... : Brenta Spire
From the Crescent Spire-Brenta Spire col, follow the broad ridge to where it narrows near the summit. The final portion of the ridge has a few 4th class steps. This route is highly recommended for those days where the weather is marginal. Views from the summit are spectacular....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Brenta Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the spires from the summit of Brenta Spi...
A view of the spires from the summit of Brenta Spi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The south ridge of Brenta Spire, seen from the sum...
The south ridge of Brenta Spire, seen from the sum...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brenta Spire Summit, epic views of Bugaboo Spire a...
Brenta Spire Summit, epic views of Bugaboo Spire a...
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper part of the south ridge of Brenta Spire
The upper part of the south ridge of Brenta Spire

Comments on Brenta Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daniel Bookless
From: Portland, OR
Feb 17, 2015
Definitely the upper limits of 4th class scrambling, certainly some aspects of this route involve low 5th class climbing with minimal exposure. encounters some used webbings and cords where past climbers had repelled.
By natsdad
Sep 9, 2016
Climbed the South Ridge of Brenta Spire as a solo scramble years ago, when my climbing partner needed a rest day. It is a beautiful route with exceptional views back toward the main spire and particularly good views of the N.E. Ridge of Bugaboo Spire. There are one or two low-5th class steps - I remember a 5th class downclimb move or two before getting on Brenta Spire proper. I climbed in mountain boots and felt comfortable the whole way. Highly recommended.

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