Aguja Guillament Northeast Ridge. The ridge further west, Northwest ridge is the Comesana-Fonrouge.
Great first route in the area. Can be approached from Paso Superior as we did it or from Piedra del Fraile. Crux is a series of 3 cracks that split the face. The middle option, down the ramp to the left is 10d. The furthest right option is 11a or so. Clean, perfect granite that climbs the ridge to the snowfield which gains the summit.
Pitch 1: 5.9+ moving up the right facing flakes and face corners.
Pitch 2: 3rd class up and left
Pitch 3: 5.9+ up right facing corner
Pitch 4: Crux. 10d crack and offwidth. Furthest left of 3 cracks that split the face accessed down the ramp to the left. Clip a piton on the way. Possibly some Verglass inside.
Pitch 5-6- 10a/b up right facing corners and crack to a stance. Excellent pitch.
Pitch 7-8: 3rd class on ridge up and then down into the notch at the start of the rappels, at the top of Amy-Vidailhet.
Pitches 9-12: Connect with the Comesana-Fonrouge. 4th and 5th class up the ridge to gain the snow field at the top. Move over snow field and tallus slopes to gain the summit block.
Aguja Guillament Northeast Ridge
Standard Rack to 3 in
View of Fitz Roy from the summit of Guillaumet.
Rapping over the bergschrund on the Amy-Vidalhet, ...
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