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Breashear's Crack II 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

Type:  Boulder, 19'
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: [Breashears]
Page Views: 13,449
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Feb 21, 2002

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Crack kills.


This is located on the "square block" about halfway up the hill. The block can be seen from the Black Hole directly above a large pine tree on the middle of the hillside. This problem is rad. The crux is the first 8-10 feet. It has really thin laybacks and jams. The upper half of the problem is easier but pretty highball. Unless you regularly onsight .11+ finger cracks, I'd recommend a pad. This is the crack up the center of the northwest face of the square block. There are problems up both aretes on either side of the face. I'm not sure who did the first ascent or if there are any cool historical facts about this one. This is one of my favorite boulder problems. It is worth every star.


Two crashpads and two spotters preferable. The problem is about 19 ft. high with a bad landing

Photos of Breashear's Crack II Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic finger cranking.  Photo by Tom Michael.
Classic finger cranking. Photo by Tom Michael.
Rock Climbing Photo: Breashear's Crack II.  -Joe Haught
Breashear's Crack II. -Joe Haught
Rock Climbing Photo: Finger crack.
BETA PHOTO: Finger crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: On the start.
On the start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting move..
Starting move..
Rock Climbing Photo: J on B. Crack.
J on B. Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Breashears.
Rock Climbing Photo: Spotlight ascent of Breashear's Crack II.
Spotlight ascent of Breashear's Crack II.
Rock Climbing Photo: On top of the route.
On top of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: T.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the top.
Looking down from the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling through the crux.
Pulling through the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Toblerone.
Rock Climbing Photo: Reaching the top.
Reaching the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve sending BC II, Sept. 6, 2017.
Steve sending BC II, Sept. 6, 2017.
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome starting sequence!
Awesome starting sequence!
Rock Climbing Photo: Must do in the Front Range!
Must do in the Front Range!
Rock Climbing Photo: After both Ryan and I sent Breashear's Crack II.
After both Ryan and I sent Breashear's Crack II.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving into the easier portion.
Moving into the easier portion.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start move.
The start move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Good height depictor.
Good height depictor.
Rock Climbing Photo: Breashear's Crack II.  -Joe Haught
Breashear's Crack II. -Joe Haught
Rock Climbing Photo: Highballin'.

Show All 24 Photos

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Comments on Breashear's Crack II Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 7, 2016
By Sean Colaroso
Apr 13, 2002

This was a cool problem the start is hard, but about half way up the holds were [bomber].
By T.J. Satriano
Apr 18, 2002

As of about October of last year this problem has been harder. Chris Hanson broke a hold off of the start. It was the little left hand crimp to the left side of the crack, on about the third move I [believe]. It's not too much harder, but people have said it is harder....
By chris deulen
From: Castle Rock
May 24, 2006
rating: V3 6A

I'd recommend 3-4 pads with 3 spotters. High ball to the max! It gets easier the higher you go!
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jun 22, 2007
rating: V3+ 6A+

Great problem, great crack. Doesn't get much better than this. Last move is a little committing....
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Feb 24, 2008

Tried this for the first time today, last problem of the day so I wasn't full strength, I managed to work the moves till just above the flared off hands/ fingers section, where there is a good ledge 2-3 fingers deep. Right below where the flake section begins. I didn't have enough strength to get through to the next move as the feet really get in obvious and I was basically using my arms mostly.

Any advice?

Oh, I have some bring some freaking tape! I wish I did.
We had 5 pads and 1-3 spotters at a time which helped the mental factor.
Classic for sure, it will be a nice project for me.
By Bjorn
From: Leadvegas, CO
Jul 19, 2008

Now wouldn't the FA be David Breashears?
By GeoffElson Elson
Aug 8, 2008

This is the most beautiful line I have ever seen, or climbed, literally the world's best V3. It may seem a bit burly until you hunker down on the finger locks and figure out the sequence.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Mar 2, 2009

This might be the hardest V3 I know... great problem, very asthetic.
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Nov 8, 2009

Uh..Yeah...IMHO a sandbag at V3. Would you give this only .11c/d if leading it?
By Big Ears
Sep 5, 2011

I would say it's hard for the grade but not necessarily a sandbag. Compare it to the Aid Crack on Cob Rock in Boulder Canyon (.10d), and I would think the rating is accurate. 2-3 letter grades seems about right.
From: Potrero Chico, MEX
Jan 5, 2012

By chipacles
Sep 20, 2013
rating: V3-4 6A+ PG13

I haven't bouldered a whole lot, but this seemed very rough for V3 unless you're an awesome crack climber (which I'm not). If that crux were 40 feet up a climb, I'd expect it go at least 5.12a. Super aesthetic!
By WadeM
From: Golden, Co
Sep 16, 2014
rating: V3 6A

Felt 11+ to me. Been on plenty of 11s in Eldo, and it's right on par. Compared to something like Gill Crack (12a), this is much easier....

With good crack technique, it's fun.
By Brett S.
From: Colorado
Jul 28, 2015

What a killer problem! My pick for best V3 in Colorado. Just go climb it.
By Jason Antin
From: Golden, CO
Aug 20, 2015
rating: V3 6A

The most dramatic video of a V3 you'll probably ever see - what a great little problem though!

By tdziedzina
From: Golden
Apr 7, 2016
rating: V3 6A

Best V3 in the Front Range!

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