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B. Middle Cliff Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 
Compound Fracture T 
Family Picnic S 
Flippin the bird T 
Fuck Rumney T 
Golf Ball Sized Urethra  T,TR 
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 
Mountaineers Route, The T 
Traction Splint  T 

Breaking the Wishbone 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dylan Oliver, Kristofer Fiore, Conor Mark (March 26, 2016)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: KrisFiore on Mar 27, 2016

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  • Description 

    Originally led onsight on gear which shall not be discussed without any bolts in place.

    Work up the hand crack until the gear runs out and aim for a pair of bolts and excellent incut edges until you can surmount the right side of the pillar. Place one more cam and finish on easier terrain with a two-bolt anchor.

    Location 

    Start in the chimney 40 feet left of Family Picnic and 5 feet right of Golf Ball Sized Urethra.

    Protection 

    Small cams and tricams with 2 bolts. Bolt anchor.

    A toprope can be set up by scrambling up the gully to the right.


    Photos of Breaking the Wishbone Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dylan on the FA, before the bolts.
    Dylan on the FA, before the bolts.

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