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Breaking & Entering 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Adam Winters, Jeremy Freeman - OS/GU - Sept 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 143
Submitted By: AWinters on Mar 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Joey following the roof


A fun route with one tricky roof sequence.

Pitch 1: Climb an easy left-facing obtuse corner to the tricky roof on the right. A finger crack under the roof (crux) leads to a sidepull jug around the lip (watch the rope on the sharp edge of the roof for your follower). Easier ground leads to a nice thin finger crack on the slab. Climb the crack up to the bolt anchor. (5.10b)

Pitch 2: Step right under the tree, then head up the slab slightly left to the finger crack/seam. Follow the crack up, then right to the next crack, and up to the big ledge. Build an anchor. (5.7)

Descent: Scramble up 4th class thru the micro gully, then walk off right, descending either of the two 4th class gullies.


The obvious corner and roof just left of the only tree at the base of the slab. About 100 feet up and to the right of the very left edge of the slab.


Standard rack to 3"

A #.5 Camalot works just after the roof to keep the rope off that edge for the follower (we had a core-shot on the FA when a follower fell under the roof).

Photos of Breaking & Entering Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 'B&E' topo
BETA PHOTO: 'B&E' topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy near the top of pitch 1
Jeremy near the top of pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy Freeman cruxing thru the roof
Jeremy Freeman cruxing thru the roof

Comments on Breaking & Entering Add Comment
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By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There is now a mussy hook station at the end of the first pitch finger crack. A 70m rope just works for top-roping the first pitch. A 60 would probably work if you lowered off to climber's right.
OK route, kind of a 2 move wonder with a fun easy crack finish.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 12, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a tricky one to grade. I felt like the crux was harder than any single move on the JFMR, but overall it's much less sustained. Kind of a two-move-wonder, but they're a hard two moves. To me, the crux feels like a V1 boulder problem, which should make it about 10c.

A 70m rope gets you to the ground, I don't think a 60m would make it.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Apr 24, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

really fun crux, i'd give that at least 3 stars and well worthwhile - the section above is not all that great (probably because it doesn't see that much traffic and is a bit vegetated). i found that doing a hand jam for the crux right move was much easier than trying to work something with undercling fingers. also thought there are decent smears for the feet.

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