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Breakheart Ledge

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Breakheart Ledge Rock Climbing 


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Location: 41.60824, -71.69933 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 594
Administrators: M Sprague, Joe M., Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M Sprague on Jan 4, 2016
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Description 

This small ledge offers some short but nice looking moderate roped climbing and good bouldering opportunities. The taller portions of the craglet run a little over 25' tall with the option for short leads or TRing from the trees up top. The bouldering is just starting to be developed (mostly on the left side so far), but some of it is very good.

The rock is featured granite with interesting quartz formations. The approach is only about 10 minutes walk, but off trail enough that you are away from other visitors. The ledge faces SE.

Getting There 

From the old white church (no steeple) take the dirt Frosty Hollow rd north off rt 165 all the way until it comes to a T and cross straight into a small parking lot. From the lot don't go up the gated rd, but walk up the smaller one that heads off to the right. In a few minutes this will drop you into another dirt rd (Newman Trail). Take a right and in a couple minutes a mountain bike trail will head off to the left. Take this and in a few hundred feet it crosses a stone wall. Follow the wall to the left and in a couple hundred yards it will bring you close to the left end of the ledge.
Alternatively, if the lot is full or it is too rough for your car, you can take a right at the T and park at Breakheart Pond then walk north along the west side of the pond to meet up with Newman Trail on the other side. Take a left then look for the bike path on your right in a minute or two. I think it is slightly longer this way.

Climbing Season

For the Arcadia Management Area area.

Weather station 8.2 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Breakheart Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: High Hopes

High Hopes V3 6A  Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Breakheart Ledge
Sit down start left end of the tooth flake or further right and traverse up it. Reach up and right to the slopey angling crack as with Bitter Bale but instead of heading right along the crack, work up from a kneebar or pop to a high ear with the left and gain the slopey lip at the top of the overhanging face. Throw a heel out right and press out the cool mantle. Easier than I thought it was going to be, but fun. Stay out of the wide corner crack to the left....[more]   Browse More Classics in Rhode Island

Comments on Breakheart Ledge Add Comment
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 4, 2016
Brian mentioned this area recently so I checked it out and was pleasantly surprised. I have started to develop the bouldering some, mostly on the left side so far, where there is a shorter vertical wall with easier routes and traverses and a nice taller overhung section. It looks like there is plenty more. Some of the potential lines blur from highball into solo territory with nasty landings so be sensible about using a rope, particularly since it hasn't seen much traffic on a lot of it.

I haven't climbed the roped routes yet beyond bouldering partially up, but Brian describes them in his website climbri.org/breakheart.htm
Thanks Brian.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jan 5, 2016
Glad you are getting out there. The area needs some love. Be careful, I pulled a 50lb block off one of the routes on the right end.

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