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Breakfast of Mutton T 

Breakfast of Mutton 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Zac Warren & Roy Suggett
New Route: Yes
Season: Any time other than the hottest days of summer or the coldest of winter
Page Views: 264
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Nov 16, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Breakfast of Mutton Topo

Description 

Before you start this journey you should know that the line was cleaned, thus creating the material for the large cairn at the base. This, however, will not in any way mitigate the ever present feeling of fear from the soft and loose material inevitably found on this route. So look around at the many and varied gear options so as to sew it up. There are two cruxes. The start is a technical liebacking crux and the exit is an exposed heady crux to turn the overhanging cap rock. There are fun moves throughout and there are rests.

Location 

Just walk around the base to the northwest side. Find here a large cairn and small Pinyon Pine at the base of the obvious weakness.

Protection 

GEAR: Bring one each of BDs .4, #5, and #6. Bring doubles of .5s through #4s. Several runners and a set of nuts and/or Lowe tricams.

ANCHOR: There is a two bolt anchor slung with a cut end of climbing rope and a quick link at the top. There is also a summit register and bonus, a small flask of celebratory spirits. A 50 meter rope gets you down.


Photos of Breakfast of Mutton Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Vertical to over hanging
Vertical to over hanging
Rock Climbing Photo: The cruxie start
The cruxie start

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