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Breakfast of Mutton
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | Zac Warren & Roy Suggett |
Page Views: | 851 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Roy Suggett on Nov 15, 2014 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Before you start this journey you should know that the line was cleaned, thus creating the material for the large cairn at the base. This, however, will not in any way mitigate the ever present feeling of fear from the soft and loose material inevitably found on this route. So look around at the many and varied gear options so as to sew it up. There are two cruxes. The start is a technical liebacking crux and the exit is an exposed heady crux to turn the overhanging cap rock. There are fun moves throughout and there are rests.
Location
Just walk around the base to the northwest side. Find here a large cairn and small Pinyon Pine at the base of the obvious weakness.
Protection
GEAR: Bring one each of BDs .4, #5, and #6. Bring doubles of .5s through #4s. Several runners and a set of nuts and/or Lowe tricams.
ANCHOR: There is a two bolt anchor slung with a cut end of climbing rope and a quick link at the top. There is also a summit register and bonus, a small flask of celebratory spirits. A 50 meter rope gets you down.
ANCHOR: There is a two bolt anchor slung with a cut end of climbing rope and a quick link at the top. There is also a summit register and bonus, a small flask of celebratory spirits. A 50 meter rope gets you down.
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