REI Community
Main Alcove Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Breakfast of Champions T,TR 
Crispy 
Hammond Eggs 
High Traverse 
Kellogg's T,TR 
Low Traverse (aka Chinese Vodka) 
On the Box 
Over Easy 
Pop 
Scrambled 
Slippery Crimps 
Thank God Traverse 
Warm Up Traverse 

Breakfast of Champions 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c Hueco: V2-3 Font: 5+ PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 12'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c Hueco: V2-3 Font: 5+ PG13 [details]
FA: unknown gorilla
Page Views: 3,361
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 14, 2007  with updates from Dave Twardowski

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Breakfast.

Description 

This is one of the fine, moderate, bouldering problems in the Alcove. Its overhanging nature and the potential nasty landing (pre-pad days) made it as much a mental challenge as a physical challenge. I understand one fine climber, Geoff, actually broke his back on this problem.

The start isn't too bad. It's the last part of this problem that involves a long reach on less-than-buckets that make it challenging. I've come to understand it's considered V2-3 now, depending on one's height. Pushed to add a bouldering grade by Dave Twardowski, I've added a range including a PG-13 safety rating due to the risk to one's back.

Boston Rocks II has a nice shot of this, top row, 4th photo

Location 

This starts near the center of the overhang of the Alcove. Its start is near the beginning of the left-angling crack/ramp. It is left of the moon scoop.

Protection 

Get a great spot, a big squishy pad, or use fine technique.


Photos of Breakfast of Champions Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Freeman on Breakfast of Champions, V3.
Andrew Freeman on Breakfast of Champions, V3.

Comments on Breakfast of Champions Add Comment
Show which comments
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 11, 2010

This was the first "boulder problem" that I ever worked on. It was considered kinda hard BITD, especially w/o a pad. Nice problem.
By Ken Cangi
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Feb 22, 2013

Rick West and I did a pretty cool elimination problem on BoC, around 1982 or 1983. He did the first ascent, and I did the second. It is considerably harder than Hammond Eggs, although it has been so long ago that I really couldn't rate it accurately. Maybe V5. Wonder what ever happened to Rick.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About