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Breakfast in America T 

Breakfast in America 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: D'Antonio, Sharp, O'Donovan
Season: Year round
Page Views: 832
Submitted By: Chad Kuhlman on Jan 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st MORE INFO >>>


This is an excellent and challenging finger crack. Climb the initial overlaps to reach the base of the finger crack. Rest and plan ahead for the upcoming difficulties. It is very strenuous and hard to place gear when you are pumped. Go for broke and you will be rewarded with a nice jug at the finish. There are two bolts for anchors at the top of the crack.


Find the obvious y-shaped finger crack that splits the middle of Cove Rock.


TCUs, set of stoppers, and a couple hand size pieces for the bottom of the climb.

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By Chris Mack
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This route is incredibly hard. I think it is a ridiculous sandbag unless you are a 5.13 climber or your digits fit the crack perfectly. I am being conservative when I say it is 11+. The start isn't too bad, but it is committing and if you do it wrong it is going to suck the life out of you. The crux is desperate. BAG-O-SAND. :)

The bolted anchor is in good condition, but it is set back a bit, so if you plan to rig a toprope, make sure you have some double length slings to extend the anchor.
By Nick Barczak
Jul 9, 2013

Feels harder than both Jaws (5.11a, Mt. Woodson) and Espresso Crack (5.11, Little Egypt).
By Brett S.
From: Colorado
Oct 1, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This is a short but really hard crack. I went into it thinking it was .11a (maybe the guidebook gave it this grade?) and got quite a nice surprise. I'm no finger crack master, but this guy feels pretty dang fierce. I'd call it .11+. The gear is great though, stopper/small cam placements anywhere ya want. A really cool climb, even the start bulge is harder than it looks.

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