REI Community
search
Advanced
(91) Breakfast Cracks

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birds of Paradise T 
Blackberry Jam T 
Espresso T,TR 
White Rabbit T 

(91) Breakfast Cracks Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 2,489
Administrators: Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: David Wade on Sep 1, 2008
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
Bill Coe climbing Blackberry jam, photo Jeff Thoma...

Description 

Farthest north of the normally climbed walls. A few bolted anchors, but mostly stout trees and some gear backup. Watch out for teenagers and drinkers!

Getting There 

The very first trail you get to as you drive up past the church.

Climbing Season

For the Rocky Butte area.

Weather station 4.1 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in (91) Breakfast Cracks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (91) Breakfast Cracks:
Blackberry Jam   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   
White Rabbit   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   
Birds of Paradise   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (91) Breakfast Cracks

Featured Route For (91) Breakfast Cracks
Rock Climbing Photo: Birds of Paradise

Birds of Paradise 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : ... : (91) Breakfast Cracks
A fantastic climb on the west (climber's right) side of the Breakfast Cracks wall. Start on a low-angle ramp and gain the finger crack with lots of pin scars. Follow the right-leaning crack until a bulge needs to be negotiated. Once above the bulge, there are some exceptional underclings, sidepulls and jugs that are very out of character for basalt. Make a leap of faith and continue going straight up the face making use of these ergonomic holds until reaching the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

Comments on (91) Breakfast Cracks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Aug 8, 2014
Four great climbs in this little self-contained venue. Unfortunately only one of them has any top anchor, making accessibility an issue.

Blackberry Jam can be lead and then belayed from the top, either on the precarious top-out ledge, or at a fir tree 30 feet back.

Espresso can be rapped and top-roped from the chain around the tree. The tree doesn't look great, and the chain setup isn't exactly UIAA standard, but it's all you have in this area.

White Rabbit tops out in a section without any trees or cracks nearby. No idea how you would belay up a second climber.

Bird of Paradise ditto above.

I scouted this area pretty thoroughly. There are plenty of bolt threads, but the hangers have been removed. No trees safely accessible for rappelling. If you don't want to climb out, you can go down to the perimeter trail below and take the scenic route out.
By another Chad
Aug 9, 2014
Here's the set up for top-roping several of the Breakfast Cracks classics.

Blackberry Jam
With a 50 foot (give or take) static rope, tie an end around the large fir tree that's 40 feet back from the top of the climb. Pull the rope to the edge of the climb. During this process you'll be attached to the rope with a Grigri. Tie a loop in the end of the rope and attach a locking carabiner to it. Put the center of your climbing rope through the locking carabiner and toss it over the cliff. Back-up is either a hex or a hand sized cam. You might need to adjust the length on either the hex or the static line to get them equal. Ideally, you'll want most of the climber's weight to be on the hex/cam.

White Rabbit
With a 100 foot (give or take) static rope, tie the center of the rope around the reasonably large fir tree that's 30 feet back from the top of the climb. The fir tree is back in the woods a bit. Pull the two tails of the static line to the edge of the cliff. During this process you'll be attached to one of the tails with a Grigri. Tie a loop into each of the tails and attach a locking carabiner to each loop. Put the center of your climbing rope through the carabiners and toss it over the cliff. Set the static rope over the smooth, rounded edge at the top of White Rabbit. You'll want your carabiners to be just below the lip.

Birds of Paradise
2 or 3 foot sling on the old Metolius Rap hanger at the top. Back-up with a bomber nut roughly 5 feet behind the hanger. Another backup option is further back in the alcove, roughly a #2 C3. Either use a short length of rope or some super long slings to connect it all. Birds of Paradise is a common and easy way to rappel into Breakfast Cracks.

It's a bit daunting figuring all this out for the first time. With practice it takes less than 25 minutes to set up all of the TR's on Blackberry Jam, Espresso, White Rabbit and Birds of Paradise. Great for after work sessions.


Chad
By das1405
From: Portland
Apr 7, 2016
does anyone know WHY all the anchor bolts are cut off? seems odd?
By Tim Welch
From: Portland, OR
Sep 1, 2016
I vaguely remember hearing a couple years ago one of the homeowners was removing anchors on that side
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Mar 19, 2017
My friend Erik and I have been cleaning up and re-equipping the four best routes here. So far Espresso and Birds of Paradise have new stainless steel anchor bolts, and eventually Blackberry Jam and White Rabbit will as well. Hopefully these won't be chopped.

As of March, three of these routes were still dripping but BoP was mostly dry. Access is a bit easier than previously believed as you can climb down through a small cave between the Breakfast Cracks and the Toothpick Wall.

For top-roping, the anchors are best accessed by fixing a line from a nearby tree and rappelling to them, setting up an anchor, then rappelling to the ground. The bolts do not yet have hardware for lowering so you will have to retrieve the anchor from above.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About