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Breakfast Club Peak
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5am Breakfast S 

Breakfast Club Peak Rock Climbing 


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Location: 25.9555, -100.48636 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 136
Administrators: MAKB, Hank Caylor, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Patrick Betts on Apr 15, 2016
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Description 

Morning sun in early spring on the approach but the route will stay in the shade. Mostly good rock with patches of loose rock or vegetation.

Getting There 

Follow the trail to Tarahumara Pass; after approx. 30 min you will see a climbers trail that splits off to the left (at the time of posting there was a cairn with "5AM" marked on the rock.

Follow this trail as it winds upwards through the vegetation until it deposits you at the base of 3rd/4th class rock. Do a bit of scrambling; always following a worn climbers trail. After 4 or 5 vertical scrambles you will end up on a ridge with a small Gendarme guarding the base of the route. Work your way around the hiker's left side of the gendarme (exposed but flat/level) and continue for 2 more minutes to the base of the climb; a poor landing area; and a single belay bolt.

Climbing Season

For the El Potrero Chico area.

Weather station 4.1 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


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5am Breakfast 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  North America : Mexico : ... : Breakfast Club Peak
Although there are 6 bolted pitches it is best done in 3 or 4 pitches. Below is described in 4 pitches:Pitch 1, 5.9: from the start of the route work your way up and left, over and around some dubious rock; around the arete to the left then up a fun and solid narrow pillar to a two bolt anchor.Pitch 2, 5.9+: Climb over the top of the pillar; through some vegetation as you move up and left, gaining a 2.5" to 3.5" crack in a right facing dihedral. Follow this up for not-long-en...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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