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Breakdown in Paradise 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,274
Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 3, 2006

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Kate and Dave starting Breakdown

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An unusual route that starts with easier moves on an aesthetic, highly pocketed wall before hitting a crux sequence about 3/4s up on edges. The crux feels a bit contrived because the bolting tries to force you into harder terrain when an easier sequence is a bit off to the side but has a pendulum fall risk as a deterrent.


Just right of the start of Moscow.


Bolts. Rap Anchors.

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By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Jul 26, 2010

New guide book says this routinely spits off people expecting a cruise. I went slightly right of the bolt line following some chalked crimps and polished tiny feet. Felt full-on 5.11.
By DWech
From: Fort Collins
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Agree with Ybarra, and I'm probably one of those 'routinely spit off' (hey, I made the new guidebook!). The rating on this route changes quite a bit depending on how you attack it, but journeying back to the bolts keeps it mid-10.
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

From what I've gathered, the bolt that forces you into the harder terrain is a recent addition of the past few years. The 10b grade is for climbing to the left of the bolt line up high, despite the pendulum risk. Definitely considerably harder (5.11 most likely) if you go straight up.

What a crappy route.
By Bryan Hall
From: Portland, Oregon
Jul 25, 2013

This route shouldn't be underestimated. It feels like 5.11 if you follow the bolts. If you go out left you are looking at a real pendulum and I've seen people hurt from taking that fall. NOT for the shaky 5.10 leader.
By Jcweinsx Weinstein
From: Beaverton, Oregon
Jun 18, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Several of the bolts spin. Some have crappy hangers that are hard to clip. Anchor bolts are funky 1 fat rap hanger and 1 snag your rope weird ass small triangular eye bolt. Feels like the bolting hardware was bought at a flea market. Bolt spacing is good, except for crux. Spacing is fine if you go the hard way straight up or marginal if you go left and high.
By another Chad
Jun 18, 2014

This route looks like it would be fun but climbs like crap. Following the bolts slavishly felt like 5.11a to me.

1) Bolts don't follow the logical line-of-least-resistance.

2) Anchor is subpar (see other comments).

3) Straight up or staying left, the climbing is not fun.

By lllama Ormsby
Mar 29, 2015

Completely agree with Jcweinsx. The third bolt hanger was not confidence inspiring, and the anchors were bizarre. Be prepared to choose between (a) rapping off a single bizarro eye bolt, (b) threading your rope through that and hanger (which can't be good for the rope or hanger...), or (c) leaving a 'biner on the hanger. My follow chose the final option, but I wouldn't bet on it still being there.
By dave Hause
From: carrboro, nc
Apr 29, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

As the edges get worn off the rock from repeated ascents this climb seems to get harder. The crux is short but the moves are definitely pushing the 5.11- grade.
By George W
Oct 7, 2016
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

It's kinda fun. You get spoiled on good/easy holds until the 3rd/4th bolt. If you ascend the bolt line and grab the nice big undercling for the 5th clip then it's definitely a thin .10b/c move. Push the bush and trust your feet!
If you get sucked under the little roof, it's difficult to make the move out. If you follow holds left and skip the buggy undercling, followed by a juggy traverse to the chains, then it goes as an easy(ish) .10. Risk of undesirable little pendulum if you do that though. Anyone who top ropes it will naturally follow the chalked up and easier variation left, which I consider a .10a. People have busted their knees going left of the bolt line on lead because they don't fall well and it's all sub-90º (aka: cheese grater).
By Phildlm
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route seems to get a bad rap. My son and I onsighted it, and we're 5.10+/5.11- climbers. This is nowhere near an .11 route. We both agreed it was a reasonable 5.10b. Granted we stayed right of the bolt line for the first 10 feet, but hey as long as you can clip the bolts then you're still on route - no need to make it artificially harder than it needs to be. There are a few delicate moves, but if you have the reach you can easily bypass any single hard move. It was over before I knew it. Fun little pitch. Didn't find any issues with the anchors.

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