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A Stoner Among Us S 
Break the Chains S 
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Break the Chains 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Turecki
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: C. Williams on Apr 17, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Break The Chains is another Wiener Lake classic.

Description 

Same start as Room to Believe then moves left along a massive chalky rail after the first bolt. Finish the first short pitch by pulling the big bulge. Avoid the glued on hold for full value. From the chains continue straight on close bolts and fun moves. Link the first and second pitch for the full experience. A third pitch exists and is best climbed from a belay on the second pitch anchor.

Protection 

Pitch 1: 5 bolts, chain anchor Pitch 2: 11 bolts, chain anchor Pitch 3: 7 bolts, possible gear, chain anchor


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By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Apr 8, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The first pitch is approximately 35 feet long. The first pitch anchor to the second anchor is approximately 40 feet, making the second anchor at approximately 70-75 feet. The third anchor is another 30-35 feet above the second. According to people who have been climbing in the area for many years and as of today, as a reference, there are a lot of holds in the first pitch and second pitch that have become smaller, both feet and hands. Calling the route a .12a/b or b might leave you feeling quite sandbagged. And, as an aside, climbing at Wookie is more 3 dimensional and less 2 dimensional, yielding more physical routes for the letter and number grade.
Pitch One: .12c
Pitch Two: .12b
By Griswald
Apr 12, 2016
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Better bump all the routes at the cliff up a letter grade. Just kidding everyone has a right to form their own opinion.
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Apr 13, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I definitely think some of the lines are sandbagged, but definitely not all. For instance, I think Room climbs a bit more like a face climb and feels a bit less physical as a result even though it's letter grades harder. The middle grades at the wall are the ones that are a gray area, as they seem to require "body English" atypical of other areas. It reminds me of the physical nature of Rifle, which takes time to get used to the non-down pulling nature of the rock, but when you grow accustomed to it, you become comfortable on less than obvious feature/holds.

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