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Brass Monkey 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson on October 17, 2004
Page Views: 608
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Oct 17, 2014

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State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start 15 feet right of "Golden Gate". Climb a vertical face up a short arête past 2 bolts to a roof. Step left & clip the 3rd bolt under the roof's lip. Pull over the roof (.12a) along a short, left-facing corner past the 4th bolt. Take a good rest above the roof on a 1" wide foothold. Make a blind reach over a small roof to clip the 6th bolt that protect the crux. Traverse right around the roof to a sharp sidepull. Reach poor crimpers, & dyno to an undercling. A strange move off the undercling reaches a sloping shelf. A final hard section, past the 8th bolt gains jug. Stroll to the anchor.

Long slings are recommended on the first 2 bolts to reduce rope drag. I clip the 2nd bolt with a short quickdraw & a long sling on the same biner into the bolt hanger. Once I've clipped 3rd bolt, I reach down and unclip from the short quickdraw on the 2nd bolt. A long draw is nice on the 7th bolt, because clipping off the undercling is dicey. This route has a wild crux sequence.

Location 

It is located on the left side of the south face 15 feet right of "Golden Gate".

Protection 

9 bolts and 2 rings anchor.


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By Bobbi Bensman
Apr 6, 2015
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Another fantastic Mark Rolo route. I did this yesterday and fell in love with it. Thuggy, techy, with a red point crux up near the 7th bolt. Wear your magic stickiest rubber shoes!

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