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Brass Monkey 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rob Holzman
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Chadd Sechler on Mar 23, 2012  with updates from kenr and 1 more

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Brass Monkey

Description 

Climb the face between Great Expectations and the arete+chimney.

Location 

To the right of Great Expectations and about five feet left of the arete (with two bolts) + chimney.

Protection 

No bolts along the route and no bolt anchor at top. Trad placements likely unreliable or non-existent.


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By kenr
Aug 24, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

[in response to an earlier route description that mentioned three bolts] ...

I found no line of bolts between Great Expectations and the arete at the north (right) end of this section of the wall. There were at least three bolts on Great Expectations; and there were at least two bolts very close to the corner / arete at the left side of the obvious wide chimney at the right end of this section of the wall -- but no bolts in between.

The Holzman guidebook lists Brass Monkey with a protection rating of X.
I don't see how that fits with having three bolts.
By Jac Frech
Sep 26, 2014

This route has two bolts. I don't know what Chadd was thinking, but you can see both in the picture he submitted. My guess is the X rating comes because the first bolt is 18' off the deck.
By kenr
Jun 13, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

Those two bolts are for a different route, called "5.10b" in the Rob Holzman guidebook.
. (My best guess would be that the strong climbers who first developed the Library just enjoyed soloing Brass Monkey -- as they did other routes of similar difficulty, e.g. Gray Face).