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Brass Balls 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,256
Submitted By: Brian Aitken on Jan 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Start of route


The crux is halfway through the climb at the end of the crimpy traverse, reach up high if I recall correctly and then it's all over - run up to the top.
The rock quality is excellent, well worth doing.


Walk up the base to a chimney which is often wet. Climb the chimney (5.6) then begin traversing right - you get some good exposure and good views. You can walk off.


Small rack, save some small stuff for the traverse.

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 15, 2008

Pitch 1: Climb the corner/chimney with some awkward but not too hard climbing eventually exiting right to the anchor on the tree...

Pitch 2: climb up easily then traverse right on progressivly smaller holds and gear until you can surmount the slab above... Climb easy rock above to a thread anchor...

Pitch 3: climb up moderate rock tou the top...

You can combine pitches 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 but watch rope drag...
A blue TCU and a couple small nuts will help protect the traverse...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 9, 2010

When on the cliff is the chimney? Right/Middle?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 9, 2010

the corner/chimney is in the middle of the main section of the cliff... to the right of standard and left of the 2 bolted routes... best way to find it is to look for the small tree growing on a ledge 30ish feet off the ground below it is your line...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 4, 2010

Wanted to get on this today but the lower corner was really wet, which I assume is typical for the style of climbing it is. Next time!
By Nate Solnit
From: Bath, NH
Jun 5, 2013

Got on this yesterday but missed the traverse, instead left the first ledge right and up above traverse before reaching high and left, exiting onto a different slab. Definitely off route, but still a fun climb with one tricky move.
By tylermoody
Jul 5, 2016

I was surprised to find a new looking bolted rap station just above the thread anchor at the end of the second pitch of this climb. I would recommend passing it and continuing upwards - there is more fun climbing to be had by following a right-leaning crack at the back of a deep ledge. This puts you near the top to walk off.

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