REI Community
Artist's Bluff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Artist's Arete T 
Brass Balls T 
Gawking Peepers S,TR 
Handy Cap Direct T,S 
Little Monalisa T,TR 
Right Side Route T 
Special Olympics T,S 
Standard Direct T 
Standard Route T 
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 
Standard route 5.7 variation T 
Vincent's Ear T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Brass Balls 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,435
Submitted By: Brian Aitken on Jan 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Start of route


The crux is halfway through the climb at the end of the crimpy traverse, reach up high if I recall correctly and then it's all over - run up to the top.
The rock quality is excellent, well worth doing.


Walk up the base to a chimney which is often wet. Climb the chimney (5.6) then begin traversing right - you get some good exposure and good views. You can walk off.


Small rack, save some small stuff for the traverse.

Comments on Brass Balls Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 15, 2008

Pitch 1: Climb the corner/chimney with some awkward but not too hard climbing eventually exiting right to the anchor on the tree...

Pitch 2: climb up easily then traverse right on progressivly smaller holds and gear until you can surmount the slab above... Climb easy rock above to a thread anchor...

Pitch 3: climb up moderate rock tou the top...

You can combine pitches 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 but watch rope drag...
A blue TCU and a couple small nuts will help protect the traverse...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 9, 2010

When on the cliff is the chimney? Right/Middle?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 9, 2010

the corner/chimney is in the middle of the main section of the cliff... to the right of standard and left of the 2 bolted routes... best way to find it is to look for the small tree growing on a ledge 30ish feet off the ground below it is your line...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Oct 4, 2010

Wanted to get on this today but the lower corner was really wet, which I assume is typical for the style of climbing it is. Next time!
By Nate Solnit
From: Bath, NH
Jun 5, 2013

Got on this yesterday but missed the traverse, instead left the first ledge right and up above traverse before reaching high and left, exiting onto a different slab. Definitely off route, but still a fun climb with one tricky move.
By Tyler Moody
Jul 5, 2016

I was surprised to find a new looking bolted rap station just above the thread anchor at the end of the second pitch of this climb. I would recommend passing it and continuing upwards - there is more fun climbing to be had by following a right-leaning crack at the back of a deep ledge. This puts you near the top to walk off.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About