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YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Jul 4, 2017

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The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner.


Climb up slabby steps with a crack system, trending left slightly. At a bulge, break through (pin) the crux, reaching a steep slab with a serious runout move to pass. With that bit solved, the pro is good to the anchor.
For pitch two, work up bulging arete and up pleasant clean rock with an ever-expanding view to a good ledge with a two-bolt anchor.


About 100' right of the private property boundary where the approach trail reaches the cliff. Once at the cliff, go right, around the small obstructing buttress, then look for an opening in the tree canopy with a view to a high arete.


While most of the route is decently protected - including a couple bolts on the upper pitch - the crux is more than a body-length above the last decent piece of gear. And if you are not tall, there is an unprotected 5.6 move 20' above the last pro above that as well. It's a slabby/friction move without any "death-grip" insurance holds, and there are plenty of ledges to bash into if you fall.
There is a rap anchor at the top, and at the top of the first pitch as well.

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